72, Encinitas, California
“Being accepted” among the guys back in the late ‘50s wasn’t a big deal because surfing was just so new to everyone. I started surfing when I was 11, in 1955, and the surfing explosion had just begun. As surfing got a little more progressive, it wasn’t as easy for some women as it was for me. I was lucky.Improving your surfing makes you feel good. I was very shy and had low self-esteem as a teen, so when I found surfing, I was going to hang on to it for dear life. Maybe every kid feels this way, but I felt like I was out in left field, and there was really no reason to feel this way, but I did.
Fonte: Wisdom: Linda Benson | SURFER Magazine
Wisdom: Linda Benson | SURFER Magazine
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário