quarta-feira, 31 de maio de 2017

The Culture: The American "Meh"

The United States is a proudly patriotic sporting nation, except when it comes to surfing

When surfing makes its debut in the 2020 Olympic Games, there will be a great deal of flag waving, much basking in national pride, and the low simmer of friendly patriotic rivalries. Brazilian fans will scream for every air reverse Filipe Toledo throws. European fans will put down their cigarettes and espressos long enough to cheer on the likes of Joan Duru or Frederico Morais. American fans may cheer on Kolohe Andino and a then-48-year-old Kelly Slater (and John Florence, if the Olympic committee, unlike the WSL, counts Hawaii as part of the U.S.). But to be honest, it’s difficult to imagine American surf fans working up much patriotic fervor for an international surf contest.

In the highest echelons of pro surfing, mainland American competitors haven’t given us much to be excited about in recent years. Sure, Slater has won a zillion world championships, and yes, he’s very much an American, but his freakish, two-decade run as a title threat is 
probably over. And beyond Slater, there isn’t much good news for American competitive surfing on the horizon. There are only four mainland American competitors on the 2017 
roster. Compare that with 14 Australians, which 
is a pretty incredible number considering the Lucky Country has 10 million fewer people than California. Brazil has 11 surfers on Tour 
this year. Europe has the same number of surfers on Tour as the mainland USA. Hell, Italy—a
country smack-dab in the middle of the mostly wave-starved Mediterranean—has the same 
amount of surfers on Tour as Florida, the bastion of East Coast surfing.

People love pointing to nationalistic, sociological, or ethnic reasons for why some countries and not others go gaga for certain sporting events, giving their countrymen a leg up in those sports; surfing is no exception. This is especially true when it comes to explaining the recent success of the “Brazilian Storm.” Surfing magazine held a roundtable discussion on the state of American surfing last year, featuring Slater, Brett Simpson, C.J. Hobgood, Nat Young, and Andino. Slater talked about 
Brazilian surfers having more national pride than Americans. Hobgood agreed and wondered aloud how many Americans would make the Brazilian SURFER Poll, if there were such a thing—the presumed answer being “zero.” On the flip side, two Brazilians—Toledo and Gabe Medina—made the 2016 SURFER Poll
held by an American publication, voted on mainly by American surfers. The roundtable group pointed out that Brazilian fans will spill into the water at Trestles by the dozens to celebrate a Medina victory, which isn’t a scene you’re likely to see replicated by American surf fans if 
Andino wins an event in Rio (or even at Trestles, for that matter). The common refrain was that 
“Brazilians want it more” than American surfers, with “it” meaning competitive success, and that has created a nationalistic bonding that American surfers don’t enjoy.

Is there some truth to all that? Maybe. I 
won’t pretend to understand the specific socioeconomic pressures that might drive a kid 
from Rio to surf his ass off every day for decades in hopes of getting a sponsorship contract—
pressures that might not exist in, say, Orange 
County, California. And sports-mad Australia’s well-developed junior surf-contest programs seem to pump out tenacious surfers who have 
contest chops well beyond their years. The U.S. has the NSSA, and admittedly a very competitive lineup at Lowers, but not much else.
 

Perhaps the most telling cultural difference between surf fandom in America and the rest of the world is that despite the fact that there are only a handful of Americans in the elite 
competitive ranks, most American surfers don’t seem the least bit concerned. Maybe you’re the exception, and you’re currently shaking your fist at this page with an American flag wrapped around your shoulders, but—and sure,
this is anecdotal—I’ve yet to meet a fellow American who follows pro surfing and cares which country their favorite surfer on Tour hails from. In all honesty, do you?

In America, the loyalties and identities of 
surfers seem to be tethered to specific spots rather than region, let alone country. For 
example, I’m far more likely to feel a bond with somebody who surfs maddening-as-hell Ocean Beach, San Francisco, every damn day, regardless of which country they’re originally from, than I am with a red-white-and-blue-bleeding American surfer from New York. Even
more so if they surf the two sandbars I typically frequent. Maybe that identification can
be geographically widened to encompass Northern California in general, but even that’s a stretch. Expand that geographic range to all of America and my sense of identifying with a fellow surfer dissipates almost immediately. In fact, my favorite surfers are really chosen based on how they surf rather than where they surf. If you’ve got a gorgeous, swooping cutback that I want to copy, I’ll be rooting for you in a contest way before I’ll support a less-polished surfer who happens to have an American flag next to their name on the heat sheet.

But maybe the lack of patriotism in American surfing isn’t because we don’t care about American pros; maybe it’s because we don’t care about competitive surfing itself. After 
all, America’s most influential surfer of the past
decade is Dane Reynolds, a guy who competed
only because he felt he had to, and who was 
seemingly more relieved quitting the Tour than
I was quitting the greasy, painful job I worked changing oil to get through college. Tom Curren, 
who was basically Dane before there was Dane, 
just without the hyper-inflated self-awareness, arguably became more iconic in American surfing for walking away from competition and tripping the planet as a freesurfer than for his three world titles.

Maybe the fact that American surfers don’t need competition to find career success and adoration is why countries like Australia and Brazil so radically outpace the USA when it comes to Tour representation. California still sets the pace when it comes to American surf culture, and despite a robust NSSA participation level in Southern California, the Golden State has long celebrated the local surf hero, or the unknown guy quietly ripping down the beach away from the crowds, more than we have the jersey-wearing trophy collector.

Give me a choice between the jockish surf life of Slater and the mythic, soul-surfing existence of a post-competition Curren, and, well, I’d make the same choice you would. And you know which one that is. (It’s Curren, right? Good.)
Read more at http://www.surfer.com/blogs/culture/the-american-meh/#gRS6FISXiTX4HFqg.99

Fonte: The Culture: The American "Meh"
The Culture: The American "Meh"

Live Passionately // The Story of Monsta Surf - YouTube

[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXwmy1fyBUQ[/embed]
Live Passionately // The Story of Monsta Surf - YouTube

CHURCH on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/85219480[/embed]
CHURCH on Vimeo

terça-feira, 30 de maio de 2017

Mucho Gusto on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/196514127[/embed]
Mucho Gusto on Vimeo

26/15 on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/219062119[/embed]
26/15 on Vimeo

Noosa on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/218390913[/embed]
Noosa on Vimeo

Susto em Matinhos


 





Tubarão entra em cena no Pico de Matinhos e organização adia etapa do Paranaense de Longboard. Foto: Jorge Diogo.

 

No último domingo (28/5), a etapa de abertura do Circuito Paranaense de Longboard foi paralisada depois que um tubarão foi avistado na água em Matinhos.

Os competidores saíram imediatamente do mar e disseram ter visto um tubarão de aproximadamente 2 metros.

“Alguns participantes até queriam continuar com a competição, mas de imediato os organizadores decidiram cancelar, pois alguém poderia se ferir. A gente prioriza a integridade física dos atletas”, disse o locutor Alexandro do Rosário, o "Aranha", em entrevista ao site Gazeta do Povo.

Ainda de acordo com o locutor oficial da Federação Paranaense, a organização chegou a acionar o Corpo de Bombeiros, mas foi comunicada de que o animal provavelmente se tratava de um boto à procura de tainhas. “Eu sei a diferença entre um boto e um tubarão e deu para visualizar que era um tubarão”, argumentou o locutor.

A competição foi adiada para o próximo dia 31 de julho.





Fonte: Waves
Susto em Matinhos

segunda-feira, 29 de maio de 2017

Slab Hunting in New Zealand | The Inertia

I run my own surf, adventure, and mountain photo blog, which is basically my excuse to go surfing all the time and call it work.

Fonte: Slab Hunting in New Zealand | The Inertia
Slab Hunting in New Zealand | The Inertia

Caribbean Spice On Moroccan Shores

A pinch of beachbreak zest from William Aliotti

Fonte: Caribbean Spice On Moroccan Shores
Caribbean Spice On Moroccan Shores

RIP John Severson: 1933-2017

Founder of SURFER Magazine passes away at age 83

Fonte: RIP John Severson: 1933-2017
RIP John Severson: 1933-2017

sábado, 27 de maio de 2017

Design Forum: Haydenshapes Plunder

Wide, flat, versatile groveler could keep the stoke alive this summer

The Eddie Cochran-penned lyric, “There ain’t no cure for the summertime blues,” has enjoyed decades of relevance for surfers. While artists like The Who, Jimi Hendrix and the Outsiders have covered Cochran’s 1958 classic, many a surfer beset by flat spells has found the time-tested adage applicable at some point or another throughout the summer.

While one perennial remedy – the wide soft-rail log – can do much to keep your sorrows at bay, many of us want the kind of versatility and opportunity for wiggle that only a sub-6-foot board can inspire.

Enter Haydenshapes’ “Plunder” model.

During the last half-decade, shaper Hayden Cox’s wide, voluminous, lightweight designs built with his patented Future Flex construction – like the ever popular “Hypto Krypto” –have done much to broaden the functionality of high performance shortboards in small or mediocre surf.

The Plunder, meanwhile, takes many of the design elements that made the Hypto so adaptable in marginal conditions – flat rocker, wide outline, soft rails – and pushes them to their logical extremes.

As described on the HS website:
“The Plunder is a fuller-plane shape board designed to bring versatility and fun to small waves without forgetting about that superior performance spark, too. The unique surface area in the outline allows the board to trim with surprising speed in the weakest of conditions, while the soft diamond tail paired with the kick in the rail-line rocker toward the back third, gives the Plunder an ability to respond and turn when a good section lines up.

The way the Plunder is so easy to paddle and effortlessly generate speed allows you to ride this board with a relaxed sense of style to find that enigmatic “flow” in all types of small waves. The board has a flat rocker throughout to produce speed in all areas of the wave, but the rolled vee in the entry and double vee throughout the tail allows the board to ride smoothly through the entry, while fast and sensitive on the tail-end.”

With its wide point pushed way forward, from its broad nose to its relatively pulled-in tail, the Plunder certainly cuts an interesting figure. But the board offers even more for those intrigued by out-of-the-box, alternative surfboard design, as the fin setup (4+1) presents a range of options – single fin, 2+1, quad, and more.

Lately, Puerto Rico’s Dylan Graves has been putting the Plunder through its paces at home and abroad. The ever open-minded HS team rider and namesake/star of the web-series “Weird Waves with Dylan Graves” talked to us about his experience (and experiments) with the resourceful shape.

The Plunder has an interesting outline, to say the least. Talk about your first impressions – seeing it and then riding it.

When I first I saw it, I thought it looked more grovel-y. It looked to me like a fish or little longboard. I was stoked to try and hang-five on it, which you can do [Laughs]. Obviously, it’s really fun when it’s small and stuff, but when it’s bigger, it feels like a snowboard. It gets some crazy lift. Honestly, it’s really performance-y in all kinds of conditions.

I rode it during some swells around Christmastime. It was 8-10 foot faces at Middles [in PR], really chunky and windy. The board was so fun. I moved the [middle] fin back to get more drive, which felt really cool.

Have you ridden different sizes? Have you tried different fin setups? What’s your preference and why?

Mine is a 5’2. I’ve ridden different sizes, but the 5’2 seems to work best. The board has so much hidden volume so you can ride it smaller than you think. My favorite setup is riding it as a bonzer, actually. Hayden has a bonzer fin template – two smaller side bites with a middle fin. I’ve tried it as a single fin and quad, but for my surfing and how I like to draw lines, it feels best as a bonzer.

Many of our readers are likely most familiar with the Hypto. Does it have any similar characteristics – lots of volume, soft rails – that make it ride in a similar way?

It has a different feel. But as far as what it does and what it’s capable of, [the Plunder]’s definitely comparable to the Hypto. I think the Hypto is more of the “one board quiver.” The Plunder is way more toward the grovel side. If you know you’re not going to get crazy barreling waves, then the Plunder is geared more towards more mediocre conditions. But, at the same time, it has the capability of holding in plus-sized waves. It’s more versatile than it appears.

How about comparisons to other shapes people are familiar with?

What’s really cool about it is that it has elements of maybe your round-nose fish blended with something like a retro-single fin. If you’re feeling like you want to cruise, or just draw different lines, it offers that. But if a section presents itself and you want to pop an air, you can still do that. If feels like a different board in different spots, whether you’re cruising through flat sections or trying to do something on a critical part of the wave.

What’s the most unique or fun element about the Plunder?

It’s just so versatile. With the different fin setups and the hidden volume, you have so many options. You could even try it as a twin, if you wanted to. Or, you could go finless and just spin around – it would work. It goes beyond just being like a retro board or fish or something. I always like to compare boards to movie characters. The Plunder is the BB-8 of Star Wars: The Force Awakens [Laughs]. It’s just this little, super fun, versatile guy.

 

Read more at http://www.surfer.com/blogs/design-forum/haydenshapes-plunder/#IvsUgIwlMwxxXbCd.99

Fonte: Design Forum: Haydenshapes Plunder
Design Forum: Haydenshapes Plunder

SHOP BRO on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/212284852[/embed]
SHOP BRO on Vimeo

quinta-feira, 25 de maio de 2017

Sliding Sunset on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/213261388[/embed]
Sliding Sunset on Vimeo

Remembering Ricardo dos Santos

 

On what would be the fearless barrel-rider"s 27th birthday, we revisit his 2012 interview after his breakthrough performance at Teahupoo



After back-to-back victories at the Teahupoo Trials and wins over Kelly Slater and Taj Burrow at the Billabong Pro in 2012, Brazil’s Ricardo dos Santos was rightly recognized as a world-class tube-rider after his breakthrough performance in Tahiti. On what would be Ricardo’s 27th birthday, we look back at the Brazilian’s 2012 interview with SURFER Hawaii Editor Jeff Mull, conducted just weeks after he beat Slater and won the AI Award at the infamous left-hander.

So you’ve got two wins in the trials at Teahupoo and a very impressive performance at the Billabong Pro under your belt. I think a lot of people who don’t know you were taken by surprise last week. Tell us about yourself.

I’m from an area in southern Brazil called Guarda do Embau. I’m 22 and I’ve always really loved big barrels, but I also love small waves as well. Big tubes are always special—and that’s what I guess I’ve built my reputation on—but I really love working on my surfing in small waves and trying to get more technical and progressive. Where I live and grew up, in the south of Brazil, we don’t get a lot of barrels. Mostly just beach breaks. But I want to work on getting better in all types of conditions. Big and small. I don’t want to be known as just a barrel guy or an air guy. I want to be a great surfer.

Talk to me about your relationship with Teahupoo. What’s it take to surf the wave well?

There really is no secret, but you have to be okay with hitting the reef a lot. I think you’ve also got to be a bit lucky, too. I’ve been going to Tahiti for about five or six years now. I can completely recall my first trip there. I was about 16 and it was 10- to 12-foot and I was asking myself if I could really do this, you know? Bruce and Andy and some of the other big guys were out there and they were all really charging. I remember just being in awe of Andy out there. So they were charging really hard and no one was killed so I figured I could give it a shot. I remember I paddled out there and just tried to take it all in. I wanted to get one, but it wasn’t easy. After a while, I finally got a little nugget and pulled in, but CJ [Hobgood] dropped in on me and I ate it. But I wasn’t even bummed at all. I was just really happy to be out there and to have got one. From there, I kept coming back to Tahiti and getting a little more comfortable out there and just tried to pull in to every wave I could and really learn the wave. I’ve also been smashed on the reef pretty bad every time I go out there. Every single time I hit the reef. I guess you’ve got to bleed if you want to surf Teahupoo.

It was pretty amazing to watch a wildcard take down Kelly in Round 3. It was a really tight heat and you pulled off the win in the last few seconds. What did that feel like to beat the most accomplished surfer ever?

At Teahupoo, anyone can get two 10s. Anyone is capable of winning that event, so you have to treat every one like they could be a potential winner. When it comes to that heat with Kelly, I surfed against him last year in the event and actually almost took him down but he won the heat in the last few minutes. This year, I knew that I couldn’t make any mistakes if I wanted to beat him. I had to be perfect. But you know, he’s not unbeatable. I told myself, “You only need to get two really good waves to make the heat. That’s it. Two waves. He can be beaten.” I knew he was going to drop a few good scores right away and when he did, I wasn’t really surprised. I just tried to focus on what I had to do to win. About halfway through the heat, Kelly pretty much caught the wave of the day and I expected him to post a really high score, like a 9 or a 10. I thought he pretty much had me when he caught that wave, but then he fell and posted a 3. It felt like the hand of God knocked him down or something. I know that sounds weird, but for the rest of the heat, I just kept saying, “If I can just get one more chance, I know I can beat him. Just get one more wave.” I kept thinking about that famous heat with Kelly and Andy when Andy came back in the last few minutes to win. And then when my wave finally came in and I got that tube, it all came together and I won. It was pretty amazing.

What was Kelly’s reaction when you took him down?

When my last wave came in, I was completely focused on getting it. I didn’t even look at him as I was paddling for that wave. Afterwards, I’m not really sure what his reaction was as I was too busy celebrating. I heard he was a little bummed, but Kelly hates to lose and that’s what makes him great. I’m sure he was upset—of course he was upset—but I don’t really try and worry about what Kelly does. It was a big deal for me to beat him, that’s for sure.

In addition to winning the trials, you were awarded the AI award as well. Judging from the webcast, you looked a little emotional when you received the award. What did winning that mean to you?

Winning that award was one of the greatest moments of my life. To me, it was just as good as winning the contest would have been. It was a true honor. Last year, I got to become friends with Andy’s wife, Lyndie, and their son, Axel, while I was staying at the Billabong house in Hawaii. She’s a great woman and I felt like I really connected with Axel. While I was in Hawaii, I was really trying to prove myself in big waves and hopefully I did that there and this year in Tahiti. So to win that award was sort of a validation. I think to win that award, you have to not only impress the judges, but the surfers as well. So it’s a huge honor for me and Brazil.

There’s a video of you on the Internet getting a reef cut sprayed down by the ASP docs between heats. Do you have to physically make some sacrifices to succeed out there?

You’ve got to forget about it, because it’s gonna happen. Your arms and leg are gonna get smashed on the reef. You’re gonna lose some skin. Right now, I’m out of the water for 10 days from some reef cuts that got infected during the contest. It seems like any cut you get in Tahiti gets infected. At this past event, I think I hit the reef hard every single heat. So, if you’re gonna surf Teahupoo, you’re gonna hit the reef and you’ve got to be okay with that.

Some are claiming that Brazilians have been so successful in competition recently because they want it more than anyone else. Do you see any truth to that?

Yes, I think so. I really do think that as a country, we want it more than everyone else. And I think that’s because we’ve never had a title. I don’t want to say that we just want it…we need it. The Americans and the Aussies have had it for so long, the whole country is pulling for a Brazilian to win the world title. We have a few surfers now who I think can do it. Between Gabriel, Adriano, Miguel, and Filipe, I think we’re gonna see a Brazilian win the title in the next five years. I really do.

How has your win at the trials and your showing at the WT event changed your career?

I think most people are pretty aware of how hard it is to do well at Teahupoo. So to have done well there two years in a row feels really good. It’s great to come home and to see my friends, sponsors, and family—all of the people who believed in me—stoked on my performance. And to be honest, it’s great to get some exposure in the American media, as well. It’s really not easy to get your attention [Laughs.]

What do you want to get out of professional surfing?

Well, I think of myself primarily as a freesurfer, so it’s hard for me to say that I have any specific goals other than to get big barrels and surf great waves. I love the idea of being a freesurfer and how it connects to my view of surfing. I love to surf the contest at Teahupoo, but I’m really a freesurfer. I don’t want to fight and hassle guys for waves. I like the idea of it just being me and the ocean. It’s more simple that way.




Read more at http://www.surfer.com/features/ricardo-dos-santos-interview/#QOLZSdFz3DmsGGIK.99

Fonte: Remembering Ricardo dos Santos
Remembering Ricardo dos Santos

Dicas na Nicarágua - Waves

Dicas na Nicarágua

Fonte: Waves
Dicas na Nicarágua - Waves

quarta-feira, 24 de maio de 2017

How To Choose The Right Fins

The five questions to ask yourself in order to tackle the fin equation, according to REAL Watersports" Trip Forman


Rocking up to a solidly stocked fin wall can be daunting, to say the least. It’s no wonder many surfers shy away from trying to figure it out, never knowing what they’re missing. With so many people sending in positive comments about our article “How to Buy a Surfboard,” we felt it was time to flip the board over and tackle the fin equation. This fin article isn’t about “teching out” — it’s about finding an easy way to the right fins that will improve your surfing. Ask yourself the following questions to help narrow your fin choices from hundreds to just a few. – Trip Forman, REAL Watersports

1. What Type Of Fin Box Does Your Board Have?

This seems like the most obvious question. But then again, it takes half the fins off the table and lets you narrow your focus.
image: http://cdn.surfer.com/uploads/2017/05/HowToChooseTheRightFins_FinBoxes_Osmond.jpg

[L to R] Futures, FCS2, Lib Tech Fin Boxes. Photo: Osmond
2. How Much Do You Weigh?

Just like surfboards, fins are sized to the surfer’s weight. Typical sizing starts at XS and goes to L or XL. By knowing where your weight falls into the manufacturer’s size chart, you’re eliminating up to 75% of the remaining choices off the wall. If you are near the cut line for a fin size, aggressive surfers who drive hard through turns can size up, where surfers who don’t push as hard through the turns will probably like the smaller of the two sizes. Also, when on the cut line, know that narrower-tailed boards like smaller fins since they are typically surfed at higher speeds, where super-wide-tailed boards like bigger fins to offset the added tail area.

FCS Size Chart
XS: under 120lbs
S: 120 – 155lbs
M: 140 – 175lbs
L: 165 – 200lbs
XL: 190lbs+

Futures Size Chart
XS: 75 – 115lbs
S: 105 – 155lbs
M: 145 – 195lbs
L: 180lbs+

3. What Types Of Waves Will You Be Surfing The Board In?

Just like different board designs for different wave types, there are different fin designs for different wave types. Generally, fins with a more vertical leading edge turn in a tighter arc and are better for fitting more turns into a tighter space. For these fins, think dumpy, closeout beachbreaks where you only have a limited space to get the job done. These fins can also be helpful in racey, fast-breaking waves where it’s important to get on rail fast and get the ball rolling. More rake in the fin makes it better for drawn-out turns. How does that feel? They will feel solid and confident drawing out a high-speed, long-radius turn, where the more vertical fin will feel nervous and skittish, like it wants to initiate the turn sooner.
image: http://cdn.surfer.com/uploads/2017/05/HowToChooseTheRightFins_Rake_Osmond.jpg

[L to R] Less Rake – Medium Rake – More Rake. Photo: Osmond
4. Do You Consider Yourself An Aggressive Surfer Or A Free-Flowing Surfer?

This question helps when looking at fin construction. Surfers who are really pushing hard through their turns or surfing in faster, more powerful waves, will appreciate the added stiffness that carbon or solid fiberglass adds to their fins, whereas surfers who are just flowing through their turns may find these constructions to be too stiff. How does “too stiff” feel? Basically, you’re not able to flex the fin, and then receive the bonus of that flex, which is a burst of speed out of the turn. A fin that feels too stiff feels like it’s not flexing at all. Conversely, a fin that’s too soft, like plastic fins for most surfers, flexes and washes out, never really springing back effectively. If you have tried a set of carbon-reinforced fins and feel they’re a bit too stiff, try a set of the same template, but with fiberglass/honeycomb construction.
image: http://cdn.surfer.com/uploads/2017/05/HowToChooseTheRightFins_FinConstruction_Osmond.jpg.jpg

Similar fins available in different constructions. Photo: Osmond

Similar fins available in different constructions5. What’s My Ride Number?

This is a fin performance measuring system that Futures uses to make the tech easier to understand. The larger the number, the more speed the fin generates. Ride Numbers 7-10 are good for when the surf is soft, gutless, and has no push. The smaller the Ride Number, the better the fin is for control and confidence in fast-breaking waves. When it’s pumping, heavy, and fast, Ride Numbers 1-4 offer the most control and confidence. The mid-range numbers 4-7 are great as an all-around fin or a “tweener” for your fin quiver. Everything described above in this article still applies (size, construction, rake, etc).
image: http://cdn.surfer.com/uploads/2017/05/HowToChooseTheRightFins_FinRideNumbers-1_Osmond.jpg.jpg

[L to R] Futures Ride Numbers Blackstix 9.4, JJF 3.7, Pyzel Control 3.0. Photo: Osmond
The Final Countdown

Once you’ve applied these five criteria to finding the right fin, you should be down to 1-2 choices. That’s pretty good, considering we started out with over 100. Maybe the color of one of those two fins will even match your board. But don’t you dare choose the matching color before you hone in your choices. Otherwise, you’re missing the boat.
image: http://cdn.surfer.com/uploads/2017/05/REALWatersportsTheFinDoctorFinalSetup.jpg_re.jpg

Once you’ve got the equation dialed in, it’s easy to pick the right fins. Photo: Osmond
Four Fin Quotes To Live By:

-When you’re up and planing on the wave, your fins are nearly 50% of your wetted surface area. Why do people care so much about their surfboards and so little about their fins?

-If you’re having a hard time understanding the benefits of high-performance fins, think of riding a snowboard or pair of skis made of plastic. When you load up a turn, instead of springing you out into the next turn, they would just keep bending and bending, and never really rebound you out of the turn. That’s what plastic fins feel like compared to high-performance fins. You’re losing that extra burst of speed out of every turn.

-Don’t be lazy! Try different fins and different fin setups in your board. I had a board that I swore would be killer as a quad, and it was actually really average. When I switched it to a thruster, it was one of the best boards of that style I’ve ever tried.

-The “new” mid-length single fin boards are even more dependent on nailing the perfect fin to get the most out of the board. If anything, people tend to over-fin these boards and kill the performance with too much fin. How does this feel? You’ll bog down in your bottom turn and get passed by the section. You’ll also be riding a board that feels edgy, critical, and retro. When you size it down correctly, you’ll likely have that Aha! moment, and then the board will be neutral, free, and fast through the water.
image: http://cdn.surfer.com/uploads/2017/05/HowToChooseTheRightFins_MidLength_re.jpg

Make sure not to over-fin the mid-lengths. Christenson Flat Tracker | Captain Fin Co, Brother Marshall. Photo: Osmond
Trip Forman is the host of REAL Watersports’ popular and informative surfboard video review series, including “How To Choose The Right-Sized Surfboard,” seen below. For more info on surfboards and fins, check out REAL’s website at REALwatersports.com.




Read more at http://www.surfer.com/blogs/how-to/how-to-choose-the-right-fins/#UrAFK10C03amyAYe.99

Fonte: How To Choose The Right Fins
How To Choose The Right Fins

The Archivist: Navigating by Heart | The Surfers Journal

Fonte: The Archivist: Navigating by Heart | The Surfers Journal
The Archivist: Navigating by Heart | The Surfers Journal

Laje da Jaguaruna Swell do ano - Waves

Laje da Jaguaruna Swell do ano

Fonte: Waves
Laje da Jaguaruna Swell do ano - Waves

segunda-feira, 22 de maio de 2017

An Icy Resolve | SURFER Magazine

Armed with little more than a few surfboards and tents, Dane and Tanner Gudauskas go searching for surf along Iceland’s unpredictable coast

Fonte: An Icy Resolve | SURFER Magazine
An Icy Resolve | SURFER Magazine

These Photos Are Guaranteed to Induce "Vanderlust" | The Inertia

If symptoms continue for more than 48 hours, consult your physician.

Fonte: These Photos Are Guaranteed to Induce "Vanderlust" | The Inertia
These Photos Are Guaranteed to Induce "Vanderlust" | The Inertia

sábado, 20 de maio de 2017

Adriano de Souza: From Favela to Podium | The Inertia

(Sempre é bom relembrar) This might be the best rags to riches story in surfing.

Fonte: Adriano de Souza: From Favela to Podium | The Inertia
Adriano de Souza: From Favela to Podium | The Inertia

sexta-feira, 19 de maio de 2017

Voz brazuca no CT

Voz brazuca no CT

Fonte: Waves
Voz brazuca no CT

Quem é o surfista de 22 anos que freou, do computador de seu quarto, o ciberataque mundial? | Tecnologia e Games | G1

(E ainda tem gente que tem o estereótipo de quem "surfista é maconheiro e vagabundo"...)

Leia a 1ª entrevista de MawareTech: um garoto tímido que vive na casa dos pais no litoral da Inglaterra. Sua mãe, enfermeira, quis "gritar para o mundo"; ele diz que "não é herói".

Fonte: Quem é o surfista de 22 anos que freou, do computador de seu quarto, o ciberataque mundial? | Tecnologia e Games | G1
Quem é o surfista de 22 anos que freou, do computador de seu quarto, o ciberataque mundial? | Tecnologia e Games | G1

The Doherty Report: Last Man Standing

Adriano sleeps standing up, the prospects for Gabby"s season, our favorite Brazilian surfer dad, and more from Sean Doherty on Finals Day of the Oi Rio Pro

A few days ago, I made the bold prediction the surfer who didn’t fall would win the Oi Backwash Pro, and as the picture came into resolution on my screen late the other night, and the three feet of backwash at Saquarema had been joined by three feet of sidewash, it only reinforced the notion that there was one man who would win here yesterday. In the early hours of yesterday morning, as I slept like Kelly Slater in a Matt George article, that’s exactly what happened.

To be fair, the waves yesterday weren’t that bad.

That became clear in the first heat of the morning when Joel Parkinson, trailing against Wiggolly Dantas, somehow found a backhand tube amongst all that wobbling jelly. We’ve had some fun teasing Saquarema this week, but the reality is that it was a better option than the straighthanders of Rio in that it was possible to do more than two turns, at least.

In saying that, though, it still wasn’t much of a spectacle, and not even the return of Charlie Medina to the surfers’ area after serving a six-month suspension for giving the judges a free character assessment over a buffet breakfast in Portugal last year could bring the place to life. There was a brief moment in the dying seconds of Gabe’s heat with Yago Dora where Charlie appeared to actually move, Gabe landing a big wheelie air that appeared to be enough for him to take the win. Only problem was that, on the wave behind, Yago had gone even bigger. Charlie resumed his street mime pose while Yago Dora’s parents hugged joyously beside him.

And just as Yago Dora is now everyone’s new favorite Brazilian surfer, I think Leandro Dora has to be our new favorite Brazilian surfer dad, moving straight past Charlie Medina and Ricardo Toledo. Every time the camera found Yago’s dad, however, it would pan quickly to Yago’s mum and hover there for an uncomfortable period of time. It appears there are a couple of WSL broadcast producers hoping Yago (and Yago’s mum) get some more wildcards this year.

Yago provided the only glimmer of unpredictability in an event that ended predictably, beating world champs John John, Gabe Medina, and Mick Fanning before eventually losing to another – Adriano – in the semis. It was quite a run. The airs come easy to him, but rail-to-rail he also looked great, and from what we saw at Saquarema, he’d be right at home on Tour. He’s currently sitting at third on the ‘QS and natural selection should get him there, although natural selection on the ‘QS has given us plenty of dodos in the past.

I don’t know where the loss leaves Gabe’s season. Most had him as a challenger for John John this year, but he seems down on mojo. Yesterday was made for him: long lefts, air sections, surfing at home. But nothing clicked, and he leaves Brazil barely hanging in the Top 10 and dropping out of sight. The eight security guards in matching black lycra flanking him as he ran up the beach outnumbered the fans chasing him, and Gabe goes to Fiji with one last shot at doing something this year, out on The Ledge at Cloudbreak.

My interest waned as we hit midnight and the lumpy lineup started making me sleepy, and I flicked between Saquarema and some late-night TV to keep me awake. The first image I came to was of Jude Law playing the Pope, the first American Pope, busy with his hands up the shirt of a blonde female member of the flock. American Popes, it seems, have many similarities with American Presidents, and as Pope Jude The First got busy, he talked about the absence of God, who, at that point, was busy pulling some strings over at Saquarema.

If it wasn’t clear a few days ago that Adriano would walk away with this contest, it certainly was when the eight quarter-finalists averaged over 30 years of age, even with 20-year-old Yago Dora dragging the number way down. If Kelly had been in Brazil, he’d probably have been in that group, pushing the number up to 35. Half a world away in Australia with his bad back, Kelly must have been watching Adriano, Joel, and Mick and thinking he suddenly didn’t feel that old after all. The move to Saquarema and its big ol’ lineup, turned what had been a young-guys contest in Rio into one for the old boys.

The Big Guy upstairs was certainly pulling some strings when, in the early stages of Adriano’s quarter with Parko, two judges threw Adriano perfect 10s for two bread-and-butter backhand turns and a backhand hook. I thought I might have drifted off to sleep and it was a bad dream, but I checked the heat analyzer yesterday morning, and there it was. It seems like the scale was juiced all week, maybe to compensate for the surf, who knows, but that would have been the lamest perfect wave ever dropped if the three other judges hadn’t pulled the average back under a 10. If that was indeed a 10, then be prepared for some 50s in Fiji.

It wasn’t just Adriano, though, and sure, the waves had everything to do with it. But after speed-scrolling through all the scoring waves from the quarters onward, there wasn’t much out there yesterday that set it miles apart from surfing a decade ago. Yesterday was more attrition than anything else.

The challenge for Adriano appeared to be coming from the three Aussie goofyfooters in the bottom half of the draw – Ace Buchan, Owen Wright, and Wilko. The goofies have been crying out for a turning left on Tour and yesterday they had one, although I’m not sure Saquarema was everything they’d dreamed of. All three goofies looked silky out there, drawing long lines on their forehand, the problem being they ended up surfing a bit lateral. Adriano went lateral when required, dusting off the floater for the job, but the big difference, and the thing that won him the contest, was that he squared it up and went vertical. Adriano went straight up at the lip when no one else could. He didn’t fall, he never falls. He sleeps standing up. Yesterday at Saquarema, he was the last man standing.
Read more at http://www.surfer.com/features/the-doherty-report-last-man-standing/#zm3wITPtlMvqtdAD.99

Fonte: The Doherty Report: Last Man Standing
The Doherty Report: Last Man Standing

terça-feira, 16 de maio de 2017

Beautiful Nias Clip Includes Best Barrels | The Inertia

There"s a good chance that Nias is high on your bucket list. It"s a dream wave.

Fonte: Beautiful Nias Clip Includes Best Barrels | The Inertia
Beautiful Nias Clip Includes Best Barrels | The Inertia

China2016 on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/216390778[/embed]
China2016 on Vimeo

Pear Shaped Is the Most Honest Surf Film | The Inertia

Women make up something like 30% of the surf market now, and mainstream surf media still rarely engages us as stakeholders in our community in thoughtful or meaningful ways.

Fonte: Pear Shaped Is the Most Honest Surf Film | The Inertia
Pear Shaped Is the Most Honest Surf Film | The Inertia

sexta-feira, 12 de maio de 2017

terça-feira, 9 de maio de 2017

(5) Oahu"s North Shore |The Seven Mile Miracle| - YouTube

[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vAgOFxFQYg[/embed]
(5) Oahu"s North Shore |The Seven Mile Miracle| - YouTube

Reunion Island Local: Shark Phobia Justified | The Inertia

15 to 20% of fatal shark attacks around the world have occurred on the tiny island of Reunion.

Fonte: Reunion Island Local: Shark Phobia Justified | The Inertia
Reunion Island Local: Shark Phobia Justified | The Inertia

Test Post from Surfsauros

Test Post from Surfsauros
http://surfsauros.com.br/sswp

sexta-feira, 5 de maio de 2017

untitled on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/215090785[/embed]
untitled on Vimeo

Direto de Lobitos

 

Um ano depois realizar a primeira etapa do Rekombinando, caímos na estrada novamente. A primeira etapa da nossa viagem foi de Porto Alegre até Lima, no Peru. Nos 6.000km percorridos, realizamos 13 oficinas em diferentes instituições e projetos sociais muito inspiradores, no Chile e no Peru.

Clique aqui para conhecer mais sobre o projeto

Em seguida, deixamos a Kombi em Punta Hermosa e voltamos ao Brasil para juntar recursos para realizar as próximas etapas. Nesta segunda etapa, vamos ao norte do Peru, Equador, passando pelas Ilhas Galápagos e Colômbia, onde vamos colocar a Kombi em um navio e cruzar o canal do Panamá. A América Central será feita na terceira etapa da viagem, planejada para o segundo semestre de 2017. Nossa previsão é chegar na Califórnia em outubro!
Por aqui vamos contando um pouquinho da nossa aventura para os leitores do Waves.

O Projeto - O projeto Rekombinando foi criado por três mulheres e nosso propósito é tocar o coração de pessoas que possam seguir trabalhando e melhorando suas comunidades, suas praias, seu pedacinho de terra e de mar. Nosso foco principal é o trabalho com crianças. Nos inspiramos na viagem que meu pai fez com três amigos na década de 70 e vamos passar pelos mesmo lugares. Nós os chamamos de "Proféssors", pelas lições de vida que nos transmitiram através do surfe. Nossa vontade é que essa troca de conhecimento e cultura possa deixar facilitadores em muitos lugares. Nesta etapa, a Christie, nossa parceira de viagem, não pôde vir junto, então estamos viajando em duas mulheres (Antonia e Clarissa) e mais a equipe de apoio - o câmera Thomaz Crocco e a produção, feita por Marcio Machado e Rubens Peixoto. Em alguns trechos da viagem, quem nos acompanha também é a Gabriela, uma surfistinha muito aventureira de 4 anos, filha da Cissa e do Rubens.
Esta etapa já começou com um grande desafio. O Peru está passando por grandes dificuldades com a chegada do El Niño e o fenômeno dos Huaycos - onde as chuvas que vêm da Serra descem pelos rios levando tudo pelo caminho e causando desmoronamentos e inundações. Cruzar o país nestas condições se tornou a maior questão a ser vencida, pois não tínhamos certeza se conseguiríamos chegar ao norte. Ficamos esperando em Cerro Azul por uma semana, pois as cidades ao norte foram as mais afetadas. O país todo está em alerta, estradas e pontes estão sendo reconstruídas, doações e ajuda levadas para as comunidades. Chegamos ao Peru com o plano de passar apenas alguns dias em Cerro Azul e logo subir para as praias do norte, mas ficamos sabendo que não se via um desastre natural como este há mais de 30 anos, e isso nos preocupou bastante.
Em Cerro Azul, ficamos na casa da família Barreda, uma família tradicional do surfe peruano. O mais legal é que o surfe na família se iniciou com a matriarca, que surfou até ficar velhinha. Esta foi a mesma casa onde os "Proféssors" ficaram em 1976 e criaram uma grande amizade. Um lugar muito especial para nós. Curtimos bastante a onda que oscilou de meio metro a alguns dias com séries poucos maiores, boas para aproveitar com o longboard. A onda é um point break, e quando tem swell de sul, quebra das pedras e atravessa o píer por trás de uma esquerda longa. Aqui também nos conectamos com o ateliê de artes da Prefeitura de Cerro Azul, para fazer uma limpeza de praia e uma oficina de artes. Pintamos algumas placas e também deixamos mensagens nas lixeiras da praia. Conversamos com o pessoal da limpeza de praia, e foi muito legal, pois vimos como eles ficaram felizes por sentirem seu trabalho valorizado e perceberem a importância do serviço que eles fazem para a comunidade. Eles nos disseram que as pessoas, em geral, pensam que podem deixar seu lixo na praia, porque na manhã seguinte haverá alguém para limpar, porém, a maré quando sobe durante a noite, carrega todo o lixo para o mar. Por causa do Huaycos vimos muito microlixo no mar. Uma tristeza.
Assim que as estradas começaram a ser liberadas para o norte fomos subindo, a primeira parada foi em San Bartolo, um balneário próximo a Punta Hermosa, um dos berços do surfe nesta região do Peru. Fomos recebidas pelo Rodrigo, um super shaper, surfista e paizão de duas meninas lindas. Ficamos hospedadas em sua casa com toda a equipe do projeto. Surfamos e curtimos muito com a família. Conhecemos ali o Bob, um surfista californiano de 72 anos que sempre vem ao Peru e também tem uma Kombi de 86 lá na Califórnia.
No caminho até Chicama, pegamos algumas ondinhas bem divertidas e passamos também por alguns perrengues. Nos locais onde as pontes estavam quebradas, ficamos horas parados no trânsito. Foram três dias de estrada em que vimos a real situação do país. Muitos buracos e desvios, muita poeira na estrada, decorrente da lama que invadiu as pistas, e muitas cidades em estado de calamidade.
Mas conseguimos, enfim, chegar a Chicama e foi uma emoção finalmente ver aquela mítica onda. Durante os dias em que ficamos lá, o mar não passou de meio metrão, mas, mesmo assim, a onda é surpreendente. São dois picos, o Point e Cape. Em Cape tem menos crowd e quando entra grande se conecta ao Point, que vai até o outro lado da praia, a onda mais longa que já surfamos na vida. Fomos acolhidas pelo Chicama Boutique Hotel, que nos apoiou em nossas ações sociais e cedeu a estrutura do hotel para utilizarmos e estacionarmos a Kombi.
Fizemos uma oficina de artes na pracinha de Puerto Mal Abrigo e foi incrível. Muitas crianças se juntaram no ateliê ao ar livre. A Lela, nossa parceirinha mirim, filha da Cissa, curtiu muito. Ficamos muito felizes com a recepção e ainda fizemos uma exposição dos trabalhos no coreto da pracinha. Depois, fizemos a onda com a lona azul e o skate, que simula um tubo. Foi muita curtição com a criançada e com os pais.
No dia seguinte, depois de pegar boas ondinhas de manhã, fomos fazer a limpeza da praia com as crianças da escola de surfe do Jesus. Muitas das crianças que estavam na praça no dia anterior apareceram para ajudar e, no final, o Chicama Hotel ofereceu comida para todos que participaram. Recolhemos muito lixo e procuramos mostrar para as crianças o dano que este lixo pode causar ao ambiente marinho e sua fauna. Foi bem significativo, entregamos os cerificados dizendo que eles agora são monitores da praia de Puerto Mal Abrigo e se responsabilizam em cuidar e ensinar as pessoas a cuidar da praia.
Chicama foi demais! Nos sentimos em casa e super bem acolhidas por todos. A onda é algo dificil de descrever. Tudo que ouvimos dizer era verdade: é perfeita, as pernas cansam, tem que remar pra caramba. Apesar de não pegarmos nenhum dia grande, todos nós estávamos muito felizes.
Conhecemos também “El Hombre”, um senhor que tem uma hospedagem de frente para a onda, o mesmo lugar onde os "Proféssors" chegaram quando foram a Chicama em 76. El Hombre está agora com 91, ele não se lembrou dos "Proféssors", mas cantou e tocou sua violinha pra gente. É muito emocionante passar pelos mesmos lugares, reencontrar pessoas e reviver um pouco desta aventura pela América, depois de 40 anos da viagem que tanto ouvimos falar.
Nos despedimos de Chicama com uma última ação no lugar que nos deu tanta alegria. Fomos junto com o pessoal do Hotel distribuir mantimentos em duas comunidades rurais que foram afetadas pelos Huaycos. As pessoas haviam perdido todas suas plantações e tiveram os poços de água inundados pela lama. Elas ficaram muito felizes quando chegamos e percebemos que aquela doação ia realmente ajudá-los a se reestruturar um pouco.
Seguimos para o norte com destino a Lobitos. Contamos com o super apoio da Liquid Trips e tivemos ótimas paradas para descansar e dormir com conforto. Já em Lobitos, fomos super bem acolhidas no El Hueco Villas. O swell ainda não entrou como gostaríamos, mas vem chegando. Vamos nos encontrar com ele lá nas Ilhas Galápagos. Enquanto isso, nos divertimos aqui nas valinhas da região e já realizamos aulas de surfe com as crianças juntamente com a ONG Waves for Development, que foi muito alto astral.
E assim segue o Rekombinando, buscando fazer a diferença por onde passa e tocando corações através do surfe. Percebemos que toda atenção dedicada as pessoas de um lugar pode ser transformadora, isso quando elas sentem que são especiais, que seu lugar é especial, com isso, passam a valorizar, cuidar e transmitir isso para outras pessoas - infinitamente, como uma onda no mar!

Em breve mandamos mais noticias lá do outro lado da linha do Equador. Até mais!

Fotos: Thomaz Crocco e Marcio Machado / divulgação Projeto Rekombinando.

Fonte: Waves

Direto de Lobitos

terça-feira, 2 de maio de 2017

Roxy: Destination Paradise | Surfcorner.it | italian surfing portal

Non importa dove ti poterà la voglia d"avventura, quello che importa sarà la tua predisposizione a godertela. Proprio come le foglie cadono e le temperature

Fonte: Roxy: Destination Paradise | Surfcorner.it | italian surfing portal
Roxy: Destination Paradise | Surfcorner.it | italian surfing portal

A batalha continua

A população de Garopaba (SC) segue na luta contra o projeto de construção de uma Estação de Tratamento de Esgoto na Lagoa Encantada.

Mais de 2.000 e-mails foram enviados ao presidente da CASAN desde que a mobilização foi lançada, por iniciativa dos pescadores artesanais de Garopaba, em dezembro de 2016.

No dia 15 de abril, mais de 800 pessoas participaram de uma manifestação criativa e emocionante, o abraço coletivo à Lagoa, que reuniu no mesmo círculo, pescadores e surfistas, moradores e turistas, movimentos e associações que atuam em vários bairros da cidade, gerando repercussão estadual e provocando uma nota divulgada à imprensa pela CASAN.

Foi elaborado um parecer técnico independente, que demonstra que o estudo apresentado pela CASAN para obter a licença é insuficiente e inconsistente. Não considera impactos fundamentais que ocorrerão no ecossistema, na cultura da pesca artesanal e que trarão consequências desastrosas para o turismo.

No dia 24 de abril, os organizadores do movimento "Minha Garopaba" se reuniram com engenheiros da CASAN e ouviram deles que, mesmo com estudos enxutos, é realmente frágil o ecossistema onde pretendem despejar milhares de litros de esgoto tratado por dia. Um retorno é aguardado da CASAN sobre todos os pontos levantados no parecer.

Enquanto isso, reuniões estratégicas são agendadas para verificar o andamento do processo de licenciamento no órgão ambiental, FATMA, e também para garantir que estejam todos informados sobre o que pode acontecer caso a licença para construção da ETE (Estação de Tratamento de Esgoto) seja concedida sem os estudos aprofundados sobre a Lagoa.

Mas o movimento "Minha Garopaba" não para por aí, e agora quer mostrar que Garopaba está unida contra o despejo do esgoto tratado na sua principal lagoa, mas a favor de um projeto de saneamento que seja um novo marco rumo a uma cidade sustentável.

"Estamos preparando e vamos promover um encontro de co-criação com especialistas das mais diversas áreas, para pensarmos juntos em soluções alternativas - e elas existem - para o desafio que temos nesse momento: a destinação sustentável do esgoto da cidade", dizem os organizadores do movimento.

Fonte: Waves
A batalha continua