quinta-feira, 31 de agosto de 2017

As melhores piscinas de onda no Mundo




AS MELHORES PISCINAS DE ONDA NO MUNDO


piscinas-de-ondas

melhores piscinas de onda no Mundo

O homem fez sua história desafiando a natureza. A ideia de ondas perfeitas artificiais era apenas um sonho nas primeiras décadas do esporte. O conceito de surfar em uma piscina soava apenas como uma novidade inútil, ou brincadeira infantil de quem não praticava o esporte.

piscinas-de-ondas-brasil
Afinal, o surf não é só acertar manobras e deslizar nas ondas. Para uma boa performance em condições naturais o conhecimento do mar é imprescindível. Você deve saber aonde remar, como furar uma onda e até a melhor posição para se dar bem no crowd.
Mas estes paradigmas foram quebrados com as novas tecnologias, e principalmente o aumento do crowd ao redor do mundo.

UMA BREVE HISTÓRIA DAS PISCINAS DE ONDA




piscinas-de-ondas-wembley

Primeira Piscina de Ondas no Mundo




A primeira piscina de ondas do mundo foi construída em Londres, em 1934. A Wembley Swimming Pool fazia pequenos balanços que mal quebravam, movidos por hélices gigantes com pistões elétricos.
De Wembley, até a última tecnologia de parques como o Wavegarden e a Kelly Slater Wave Co., muita água rolou. Alguns eventos foram feitos nas pequenas ondas dos anos 80 e 90, Tom Carroll foi campeão na Pensilvânia em 1986 em ondas minúsculas. E Kelly Slater no parque da Disney Typhoon Lagoon na década seguinte.

piscinas-de-ondas-tom-carroll

Mas a partir de 2010, que realmente o mundo do surf começou a levar a sério as ondas artificiais. Hoje tubos perfeitos quebram infinitamente em diversas localidades do planeta!
Vamos ver quais as melhores piscinas de onda do mundo na atualidade?

AS MELHORES PISCINAS DE ONDA DO MUNDO


TYPHOON LAGOON – LAKE BUENA VISTA, FLÓRIDA –  ESTADOS UNIDOS


piscinas-de-ondas-typhoon-lagoon

A Typhoon Lagoon Surf Pool foi das primeiras piscinas a fornecerem uma melhor condição para a prática do esporte. Mesmo sendo uma tecnologia considerada ultrapassada nos dias de hoje, suas ondas ondas fariam a cabeça de muito surfista fissurado! Esta piscina está localizado em dos parques da Disney.

AL AIN SURF PARK – WADI ADVENTURE – ABU DHABI – EMIRADOS ÁRABES UNIDOS


piscinas-de-ondas-wadi-adventure

No Wadi Adventure você pode surfar no meio do deserto de Abu Dhabi. A primeira piscina para surf no Oriente Médio pode produzir ondas de diversos tamanhos para os dois lados. Elas quebram a cada 90 segundos em dos melhores parques aquáticos do mundo.

SIAM PARK – TENERIFE – ILHAS CANÁRIAS – ESPANHA


piscinas-de-ondas-Siam-Park

Que tal fazer um surf noturno nas paradisíacas Ilhas Canárias? A piscina de ondas do Siam Park foi uma das primeiras a gerarem ondas com mais poder e tamanho usando propulsores! ótima ideia para os dias flats da bela Ilha de Tenerife.

SURF SNOWDONIA – WAVEGARDEN – PAÍS DE GALES – REINO UNIDO


piscinas-de-ondas-Snowdonia

A primeira onda artificial da empresa Wavegarden foi inaugurada no Reino Unido! Com tecnologia de última geração, a piscina pode criar ondas de até 1.5m, que percorrem uma grande distância ao lado de um pier. O projeto custou 12 milhões de libras, e a empresa planeja diversos parques ao redor do mundo nos próximos anos. A unidade espanhola abre no ano que vem no País Basco, e a unidade de Texas já esta funcionando para o público.

NLAND SURF PARK – WAVEGARDEN – AUSTIN – TEXAS – ESTADOS UNIDOS


piscinas-de-ondas-nland-texas

A Nland Surf Park é a segunda onda da tecnologia Waveganrden, e a única nos Estados Unidos! Você pode surfar ondas perfeitas de até 35 segundos no Sul dos Estados Unidos no parque que foi inaugurado este ano. Esta é considerada a melhor onda aberta ao público na atualidade no mundo. A grande expectativa está para a sede espanhola, aonde será aplicada a tecnologia “The Cove”. Por enquanto apenas surfistas profissionais estão aproveitando os belos tubos.

KELLY SLATER WAVE CO – LEMOORE, CALIFÓRNIA – ESTADOS UNIDOS


piscinas-de-ondas-kelly-slater

O mundo do surf ficou em choque quando viu Kelly Slater surfando os tubos de sua piscina particular. O projeto, que foi mantido em segredo por uma década, foi capaz de criar as melhores ondas artificiais já vistas até hoje. Ainda não existe uma data para abertura para o público e possíveis outras localidades da franquia. A WSL (World Surf League) é a atual dona da empresa.




 


As melhores piscinas de onda no Mundo

New Rio slab pushes tow surfers to the limit

Pedro Calado, Stephan Figueiredo, Paulo Curi, and more tempt fate at a thick, backless, warbled monster










THE NEW, HEAVIER FACE OF RIO


A NEW SLAB PUSHES PEDRO CALADO, STEPHAN FIGUEIREDO, PAULO CURI, AND MORE TO THE LIMIT






Send it? Pedro Calado, Stephan Figueiredo, Paulo Curi, and a host of others sent it. For the last six months, Igor Hossmann has flirted face-to-face with the new slab discovery you see above. And while the tow lines are fresh (as seen here via some mad attempts), those lines will only be perfected through trial and error, just as they were at Shipstern Bluff. Size-wise, it’s no Shippies, but it’s as just as much of a brick house. Thick, backless, and warbled. Reminds us of all those eerie Kerby Brown WA dry reef sessions. Just greener. We hope that this is only the beginning for Rio — a teaser, an appetizer to whet the palate. Now we just need more of it.







Fonte: New Rio slab pushes tow surfers to the limit
New Rio slab pushes tow surfers to the limit

In the Shadow of Giants: searching for surf along the Canary Islands

The waves along the Spanish archipelago are as beautiful as they are terrifying, which is exactly how local surfers like them




No one knows exactly how or when the Canary Islands were first settled, but the indigenous Guanches people existed on them, 60 miles off the southern coast of Morocco, for centuries before the Spanish conquest in the 1400s. The volcanic isles of Tenerife, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma, La Gomera, El Hierro, Alegranza, Isla de Lobos, Montaña Clara and others balance seemingly opposite traits, with some areas overgrown and tropical while others resemble barren deserts. Some assert that this paradoxical land was the inspiration for the Greek poet Homer"s Elysium, where the righteous went to enjoy eternity.

In terms of surf, the Canaries were pioneered by vacationing Englishmen in the late 1960s. The first Canarian locals picked up whatever equipment the travelers left behind, exploring spots like Las Américas on Tenerife and some of the friendlier, sandier waves on other islands. By the late "70s a small but dedicated culture had emerged, with local surfers discovering countless perfect barrels grinding over ruthless volcanic rock. For much of the "80s, these treacherous breaks were ridden primarily by an unhinged group of bodyboarders, while hard-charging surfers also explored the big-wave setups off Lanzarote, North Tenerife and beyond.

Over the last few decades, the Canaries have earned a reputation for some of the most aggressive localism on the planet, with pecking orders allegedly as fierce as Pipeline"s and some surfers even heaving sticks and stones from the cliffs on vacationers eager to surf the "Hawaii of the Atlantic."

If the tales of localism aren"t enough to dissuade traveling surfers, the fickle nature of the waves is sure to seal the deal. Swell and wind forecasts for the islands change wildly from day to day, hour to hour, making even the nimblest strike mission a risky proposition.

In spite of these factors, or perhaps because of them, I decided to investigate these untamed isles earlier this year and boarded a plane bound for Europe, hoping to witness the Canaries" famously beautiful, brutal surf firsthand and meet those who feel most at home in those daunting lineups.
Pro surfer Jonathan Gonzalez has been surfing the Canaries since he was 12 years old. That"s the kind of commitment it takes to unlock the tumblers in a surf landscape this localized and mind-numbingly fickle. Photo: Lugo
"If you"re going to the Canaries, you call Jonathan," Spanish surfer Gony Zubizarreta told me, referring to his close friend and Canarian standout Jonathan Gonzalez. I had met with Zubizarreta in Portugal, which we"d picked as a home base to wait for the proper window to head to the Canaries. Over the last 20 years, Gonzalez and Zubizarreta have traveled the world together, following the World Qualifying Series and sharing countless sessions in the Canary Islands. "The Canaries can be so incredible, and so frustrating," Zubizarreta continued. "The consistent spots can be really crowded and localized. The off-the-beaten path waves need really specific swell directions, tides and winds, and Jonathan has this incredible understanding of those waves and how to read those local winds. When he says move, you move."

Gonzalez was born in Venezuela to Canarian parents; his father drove semis when Gonzalez was a child and saved every dime he earned to move the family back to the Canary Islands, which he did when Gonzalez was 6 years old. Gonzalez"s father got his taxi license in Tenerife, the largest and most populated of the Canary Islands, and has been driving there ever since. At around age 12, Gonzalez and his friends became interested in surfing, pushing each other into waves along the beaches near Acantilados de los Gigantes, "Cliffs of the Giants," which are some of the most spectacular volcanic façades on the planet.

"We had one board," Gonzalez would later tell me, "an old shortboard from the "80s that someone had left behind. The nose was broken off at the tip, but we didn"t care."

Gonzalez improved quickly, challenging himself along the myriad rock reefs lining his local shores. By the time he was 17, Gonzalez was the Canaries" first international pro surfer, having won a handful of contests in Europe and abroad, including a World Junior Championship. Now 36, Gonzalez is considered one of the best-ever European surfers and one of the most knowledgeable wave-hunters around.

Gonzalez said he"d give us a day"s notice if he saw something promising on the charts, and a week later Zubizarreta and I landed in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, where Canary Islands bodyboarding legend turned water photographer Ardiel Jimenez and Floridian photographer Nicola Lugo were waiting.
Those sheer cliffs are a dead giveaway for the source of the Canaries" power. When deepwater swells meet abruptly-rising ocean floor, there will be fireworks. Photo: Lugo

Gonzalez hopped a ferry from his home in Tenerife to meet us at one of the island"s most high-performance waves, a wedging right-hand double-up that pitched a thick barrel before backing off with a few beautiful open-faced sections. Pulling into the dirt lot, our group watched as a telescoping right began to tear across the lava-rock reef, eventually sending a billowing cloud of spit into the channel. The lineup was filled with a few surfers and a dozen bodyboarders jostling for waves, hooting for each other as each set wave jacked up on the reef.

Gonzalez was already in the water, picking off mid-size gems amid the pack and taking off deep to position himself behind the foamball. Zubizarreta and I paddled out hastily and attempted to follow suit, succeeding mainly in getting mowed down by freak set waves that washed through the pack. Eventually Zubizarreta scraped into a double-up for a quick barrel followed by two full-rail hacks and a closing fin-blow on the final section.

The right-hander was intimidatingly powerful off the drop, but, according to Jimenez, surfing that break was like using training wheels compared to riding many of the other local breaks. At dinner that night, the veteran Canary surfers of our group traded stories of ferocious slabs and the unhinged surfers who commit themselves to charging them.

Opening a cold Dorada, Zubizarreta offered me his phone. "You should see Luisito at some of these waves," he said, playing a video of young Luis "Presa Canario" Diaz air-dropping into the closest thing the Atlantic has to a First Reef Pipe wave.

It"s a misconception that the Canary Islands are named for the bird occasionally found in the trees around Tenerife, Gran Canaria and elsewhere. "Islas Canarias" is actually derived from Canariae Insulae to mean "Islands of the Dogs" — and not just any dogs. The Perro de Presa Canario is one of the most impressive canine breeds in the world, squat, densely muscled and deceptively agile for its bulky build. The breed is the symbol of the Canary Islands and a fitting nickname for 17-year-old Diaz. A stocky goofyfoot with a boxer"s build, Diaz has the on-rail quickness of a young Bobby Martinez with a technical air game to boot. But what truly separates Diaz from his peers is his complete comfort in heavy barrels, which he developed over years of charging the shallowest slabs in the islands.

A few years ago, Diaz was knocked unconscious surfing one of these slabs and nearly drowned. He doesn"t remember much from the incident — just paddling for the wave and then waking up en route to the hospital. For a while after, he wore a helmet, but he never even considered shying away from the kind of shallow, treacherous tubes that nearly killed him.

"I stopped wearing the helmet after a while," Diaz told me, "because when I wore one I felt uncomfortable, and I"ve never felt uncomfortable in the water. I didn"t want that to change. That will always be my comfort zone: those waves."

The swell we"d come for was running late, but the forecast showed it growing in size. Gonzalez made phone calls and pored over wind charts online. Knowing Gonzalez"s heavy-water bona fides, and with the swell increasing, I was slightly terrified to have him making decisions as to where we would surf.

"I think we should get the 5 a.m. ferry to Tenerife," Gonzalez said. "We can surf a wave near my home in the morning, which I think will be very big and barreling. And then I want to look at this new wave."

Gonzalez explained that there was a break accessible only by boat that he"d had his eye on, and the sizeable swell and promising wind forecast for the zone could mean we"d get a chance to see a truly rare bird. His eyes were wide as he spoke, and I could hear the faint but distinct sound of a thundering set rolling over a nearby reef in the darkness.

World Qualifying Series? What"s that? Zubizarreta about a million mental miles away from the pro tour ratings points chase. Photo: Lugo
The 5 a.m. ferry from Gran Canaria to Tenerife was empty save for a few boardbags and their bleary eyed owners. After the hour-and-a-half boat ride, we were back on the road when Gonzalez turned on the radio and heard that the incoming swell was already wreaking havoc along the coast. Several people had been reported missing or dead after incoming waves sucked them out of one of the naturally occurring pools fronting the ocean. Rescue teams were searching desperately.

We couldn"t see the waves from the parking area, but Gonzalez insisted there was no time for a surf check; if it was going to be good, it would be good at that very moment, and there was no sense in wasting time. We hiked around a craggy bend in the coast until we saw a hefty, feathering peak resembling Sunset Beach standing up in the cove below. A thin brown mist hung over the horizon. Dust from the Sahara, called calima by the locals, is a windborne gift, aiding the ocean ecosystem in the region by bringing iron for phytoplankton and serving as the foundation of the aquatic food chain.

Gonzalez and Zubizarreta paddled into the empty lineup and proceeded to trade thick-lipped barrels at the cove"s center peak. Gonzalez possesses a dancer"s lean strength and bodily intelligence, making him incredibly fast in the water not just when riding a wave, but also in paddling and positioning. In mere moments, Gonzalez would cut a swath across the lineup, scratching into waves just in time to glide in underneath the lip.

I took aim at a few barrels but found only closeouts and, eventually, a set wave that broke on top of me, snapping my leash and sending me clamoring over urchin-covered rocks. As I mapped the constellation of spines in my throbbing foot back on land, Gonzalez back-doored a wedging right barrel amid the low rumble of a helicopter searching for the missing bathers somewhere in the distance.

"The other wave I want to check, I"ve only seen it break once," Gonzalez said after the session, referring to the fickle nearby reef he"d mentioned the night before. "We weren"t even looking for it the first time. We were surfing another wave along the cliffs and just saw something and got curious. And there it was."

That afternoon, we paddled from a nearby harbor into open water, where Gonzalez"s friend Johnny Dámaso was waiting on his fishing boat, Sofia. Like his father before him, Dámaso makes his living running a charter fishing outfit in Tenerife, combing the local waters for marlin, tuna and wahoo. In his downtime, he hunts a different kind of game — namely, barreling surf.

Dámaso pointed Sofia straight into the shadows of the 2,000-foot-tall cliffs of Los Gigantes. Down the coast, Gonzalez eyed the corner he"d seen on his last voyage. We motored into an amphitheater-like cove tucked into the cliffs and watched from behind as a lump of neon-blue water grew, the lip catching a sliver of light before entering the shadows and exploding, sending whitewater skyward in spectacular fashion.

"I think it"s working," Gonzalez said, smiling widely through a sunscreen-caked face. We dove off the boat and paddled in to get a better look, and Gonzalez and Zubizarreta made their way to what looked like the takeoff spot. Rising up out of deep water, a crystal-clear wedge formed with steps and boils popping up in the face.

Zubizarreta picked off the first wave, made the drop and pulled up under the lip as the water sucking off the shelf revealed dry boulders just 20 feet from his outside rail. He bottom-turned hard to pierce through the face and out the back, yelling at the top of his lungs as the wave closed out behind him.

Gonzalez"s feline agility saw him position himself perfectly when the biggest wave of the day tore through the cove. The lip flared up just as he got to his feet and pulled up and under the lip with a slight crouch, pumping furiously before disappearing from view for several seconds. I"d assumed he"d been ground up by the wave, but then saw him kick out into the channel just before the wave exploded into the cliffs.

As the sun drained from the sky, it was clear that neither of the two surfers wanted this session to end. They grew more comfortable with each set, getting emboldened to take off later, deeper, and to kick out ever closer to the dry rocks inside. They screamed each other into waves and laughed maniacally after each ride. To them, moments like these are what surfing the Canaries is all about.

"I"ve been coming to visit Jonathan for almost 20 years," Zubizarreta would later tell me. "I"ve never seen anything like this. And to think it"s right here — you just need to look a little bit further."
Plenty of nooks and crannies here alright. Just have to be willing to put in the time. And the miles. Photo: Lugo
Fuerteventura translates to "strong fortune," but before the Spanish conquest, the island was known as Planaria for its moonscape scenery. As one of the closest of the Canary Islands to the African continent, Fuerteventura"s landscape has been blown flat by centuries of fierce Saharan winds. Flying low over the southern tip, you can see miles of desolate coastline with sand-bottom points and vibrant blue water. The winds make for a bumpy ride and an interesting landing.

With a west swell coming, and lots of wind, our last two days would be spent a little closer to Africa. Gonzalez claimed that the island of Fuerteventura would be holding the best conditions, so we met up with Canarian surfer Juan Mendez del Hoyo, as well as visiting pros Peter Mendia from Florida and Alex Botelho from southern Portugal, and booked last-minute tickets to the windy isle.

We were picked up at the airport by Franito Saenz, one of the most talented goofyfoots to come from the Canaries. Saenz has known Gonzalez since he was a promising junior and spent years traveling with him during his early days on Tour. Now Saenz runs a surf camp on Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands, where he lives and surfs everything from reef slabs to sand points to La Santa, one of the Atlantic"s heaviest waves.

We drove toward the coast through a landscape that looked straight out of "Mad Max." A ruler-straight highway cut across a flat plain of volcanic rock and sand stretching to the horizon. Eventually the paved highway ended and gave way to a dirt road, where packs of ATVs and 4WD trucks tore across the dusty track, leaving clouds behind them.

Once we reached the island"s southern end, we found a little cove with a right barreling onto a rock slab. As the tide filled in and the shelf was covered by a thin cushion of water, sets began to go square on the slab"s outside corner, draining along 20 yards of shallow fingers of rock.

"There are going to be good barrels out there," Gonzalez said, already halfway into his wetsuit.

I nervously paddled out behind Gonzalez and del Hoyo while a crisp offshore wind blew hard across the flat plains. Del Hoyo scratched into a right mere feet from the rocks and squared up on his backhand as the wave went dry behind him. Much like Gonzalez, del Hoyo surfs with an incredible amount of comfort in hairy surf, seemingly unfazed by the prospect of leaving skin and blood on barely submerged slabs of volcanic rock.

A set approached just as I made my way to the top of the slab. Gonzalez shifted deeper as the wave drew the water off the rocks in front of him and he took the drop with surgical precision, his eyes following the lip as it fell in front of him; he disappeared from view. Moments later, a gentle puff of spray followed him out onto the shoulder, where he could hear hoots from the car park. Zubizarreta, Mendia and Botelho scrambled to join in on the session, and Saenz climbed onto the cliff above and began jokingly throwing rocks at the small foreign crew.

That night, on the eve of our departure, our crew stayed at a surf camp that had just opened nearby. We stood around a bonfire, warming ourselves in the crisp desert night. Saenz, Gonzalez and Zubizarreta shared stories of chasing waves and "QS points around the world, and the shenanigans they"d gotten into with European cohorts Eneco and Kepa Acero, Hodei Collazo and Aritz Aranburu, both abroad and along the stark Canarian coast. They"ve found perfect surf and high adventure across the globe, but it"s clear that, to them, nothing could ever hold a candle to what they"ve found on these isles.

"It"s a beautiful life here, for a surfer," Gonzalez said. "There are so many incredible waves, if you have the patience and the skill. It"s never been easy here. The generations that came before me explored all these islands on their own, without any forecasts to rely on. And now there"s a new generation of kids growing up all over the Canary Islands, charging the heaviest waves from Lanzarote to Gran Canaria and Tenerife."

If Gonzalez and his friends are any indication, being a surfer on the Islands of the Dogs requires dedication as well as the ability to greet fear with a smile. Homer may have believed the Canary Islands were Elysium, where the righteous went when they died, but it seems this is where the righteous live today.

[This feature originally appeared in the 58.5 Issue of SURFER, on newsstands and available for download now.]


Fonte: In the Shadow of Giants: searching for surf along the Canary Islands
In the Shadow of Giants: searching for surf along the Canary Islands

quarta-feira, 30 de agosto de 2017

SEEA x Onde Nostre: SEA LONE on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/213947240[/embed]
SEEA x Onde Nostre: SEA LONE on Vimeo

Victoria Surfer Escapes Great White Attack Unscathed - SURFER Magazine

At Cathedral Rock, near Bells on Australia"s Victorian coast, Swiss surfer Marcel Brundler punches an apex predator and escapes unharmed




Yesterday at Cathedral Rock, not far from Bells Beach along the Victorian coastline, Swiss-born surfer Marcel Brundler found himself in a helluva pickle when the dorsal fin of an estimated 10-foot great white shark appeared next to him in the lineup while he was waiting for a wave.

"My mate was screaming out, and I said "Nah, don"t worry, it"s just a dolphin," recalls Brundler in an interview with ABC News, "but then I realized quick it was a massive dorsal fin—like, big. And I said, "Oh shit.""

Luckily Brundler had the presence of mind to not paddle off in a prey-like frenzy, but instead stayed still and did his best to keep calm. According to Brundler, the shark began circling him and he eventually lost sight of it. When the shark came up once more, it attacked Brundler.

"He got me up, [with] his teeth, and basically got my board,” Brundler says. “I felt his teeth on my hip, and all his saliva on my wetsuit, and he was kind of dragging me with the board for a little bit. That"s when I was yelling out and punched him—just got him as hard as I possibly could. And it let go, but it wouldn"t leave."

Brundler says that rather than attempt to paddle in with the shark on his tail, he stayed put after the attack and waited to catch a set wave in. Back on land, Brundler realized that somehow he’d only received “a little scrape,” and his thick wetsuit and surfboard took the brunt of the attack.

"Yeah, it was a pretty scary moment," concluded the oddly-calm Brundler. Click here to watch the full interview with ABC News.




Fonte: Victoria Surfer Escapes Great White Attack Unscathed - SURFER Magazine
Victoria Surfer Escapes Great White Attack Unscathed - SURFER Magazine

This Is a Stunning Portrait of Logging in the Netherlands | The Inertia

With the proper arsenal, one can maximize the North Sea"s hidden potential.



The end of summer is near. And that means one thing – the North Sea is delivering consistent, clean conditions! Yes the low lands, Holland or The Netherlands. A lot of people think that we don’t get waves, but when the stars align, we get some of the goods. But besides the exceptional days we do one thing, and one thing only – ride logs!

Alexander Alders is the perfect example of the logging way of life. He started studying furniture design and through the process of building usable objects, he discovered his passion for hand shaping surfboards.

Alexander recently travelled to Bali and after three weeks of wandering trough the jungle and riding shortboards he ended up at Deus’ Temple of Enthusiasm where he met legendary shaper Rich Pavel. Together they shaped the log that Alex rides here – milking small but pristine conditions in the North Sea.

Fonte: This Is a Stunning Portrait of Logging in the Netherlands | The Inertia
This Is a Stunning Portrait of Logging in the Netherlands | The Inertia

terça-feira, 29 de agosto de 2017

Jye Byrnes Surfboards Boardscape V-Wizard model on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/183557236[/embed]
Jye Byrnes Surfboards Boardscape V-Wizard model on Vimeo

 Baixio altão - Waves

Onda rara de Bertioga (SP), Baixio desperta no big swell do mês de agosto.






O Baixio, em Bertioga (SP), é uma onda rara de quebrar. Mas a previsão indicava uma ondulação gigante na costa brasileira e a galera resolveu apostar no pico.

Em algumas praias da região as ondas chegaram a 4 metros. O mesmo swell fez o Baixio acordar e quebrar em excelentes condições.

Foram três dias de registros, diversas ondas surfadas e um pôr-do-sol alucinante com Deivid Silva, Eduardo Motta, Irons Burgos, Markus Harum, entre outros surfistas locais.

Vídeo filmado e editado por Mundo Surf Produções.

Foto de capa Rapahel Campos



Fonte: Waves
 Baixio altão - Waves

Quebrando os padrões - Waves

Com 135 quilos, João Pedro Martins quebra a vala e prova que o surf é para qualquer pessoa.






Longboarder de Itajaí (SC), João Pedro Martins lança mais um vídeo do projeto “Você também pode”, que aborda a questão motivacional e incentiva as pessoas a surfar.

Quebrando todos os padrões, surfando de Longboard 9"0"" e radicalizando nas ondas da praia Brava, o catarinense, que pesa 135 quilos, prova que o surf é para qualquer pessoa, não importa o porte físico.

“É tudo uma questão de treino e de adaptações”, explica Martins.

A intenção do projeto é fazer filmes que trazem o cotidiano do atleta, e manter o seu canal no YouTube como principal fonte de inspiração para todos que um dia sonharam em surfar.

O vídeo tem produção da Super Swell Producitons e imagens de The Cave Produções.

João Pedro tem o apoio de Calibre Surfboards, Quilhas Mix Fins, Salcura, Parafinas Perfect Wave e ASPI (Associação das Praias de Itajaí).



Fonte: Waves
Quebrando os padrões - Waves

segunda-feira, 28 de agosto de 2017

Why a Swim Out at Padang Padang Is Almost as Good as Getting Barreled There | The Inertia

Oh, and the waves here aren’t half bad if you’re keen on surfing.



Spending your Thursday at a beach in Bali doesn’t sound too bad, right?Padang Padang beach is the perfect place to relax, soak up some sun and enjoy a cold beer. Walking down the stairs, you’ll be greeted by monkeys on either side. Once you hit the sand, plop your bags down and enjoy the view of the surrounding cliffs. Oh, and the waves here aren’t half bad if you’re keen on surfing. Here are a few photos from my swim out to Padang.Enjoy.

Find more from the author’s adventures around the world here.


Fonte: Why a Swim Out at Padang Padang Is Almost as Good as Getting Barreled There | The Inertia
Why a Swim Out at Padang Padang Is Almost as Good as Getting Barreled There | The Inertia

A Guide To Airline Board Bag Fees for Surfers

How much does it cost to check a surfboard? What"s the baggage weight limit for different airlines? All the answers you need for traveling with a board bag.



The excitement that builds in your mind before embarking on a surf trip starts with buying a plane ticket. The next exciting step, besides bragging to your friends about the exotic surf destination you"re jetting off to, is picking what quiver you"ll bring along with you. But at a certain point, the anxiety will set in: how much cash will you have to cough up upon arrival at the airport check-in stand? Or will they even take all your boards?

We"ve all seen the airline horror stories of pros like John Florence, Alex Gray, and most recently, Natxo Gonzales, who’ve seen their entire traveling quivers smashed to bits. And we"ve all seen the angry Instagram posts from pros having to pay abhorrent amounts of money for their bags. So, to help settle the restless minds of future traveling surfers, we"ve compiled an up-to-date list of board bag weight limits, fees and overages for some of the most popular airlines–all of them listed below. This guide will hopefully help you decide which airline won"t drain your bank account. NOTE: Not every airline provides exact pricing; some only provide the weight limit.

Aer Lingus: $100

Aero Mexico: Within Mexico: $50 International: $150, maximum weight allowed per piece on AM and AMC routes is 100 lbs.

Air Canada: $50 to $60 per board

Air Emirates: Charges $175 for a board bag less than 70 lbs. Anymore will cost $350

Air France: Under 50lbs. $75 to $150, depending on departure location.

Air New Zealand: From U.S. to all destinations, $150. From New Zealand to any destination that isn"t Hawaii, or Australia, $200.

Air Tahiti Nui: Free. Must be under 50 lb. and 98″. Charge depends on size and location of departure.

Alaska: Two board limit. $75 charge.

American Airlines: One board limit, $150 charge. Must be under 70 lbs. and 126 inches (depending on type of airplane). If you pack more than 1 surfboard in a bag that weighs under 70 lbs., you"ll only be charged for 1 surfboard. If over you"ll be charged an additional $150. When you"re traveling to, through or from Brazil, you"ll be charged $42.50 for one board, and $85 for 2 or more boards.

Avianca: 3 boards per bag under 70lbs. $100 charge

Bahamas Air: 100-lb. limit. $150 charge

British Airways: 70-lb. limit. $100 charge

China Air: $400 per board

Copa: 4 boards per bag. $75 charge

Delta: 70-lb. limit. $150 charge

EasyJet: 70-lb. limit. $60 charge

Hawaiian Air: 50-lb. limit. $35 inter island. $100 to Mainland. $150 International

Interjet (Mexico): Included as part of your baggage allowance (one bag and one board).

Japan Airlines: $200 flat rate

Jet Blue: 100-lb. limit. $50 per board

Lufthansa: 1 board limit. Within Europe, $70. Intercontinental, $150

Qantas: $70 within Australia. $175 intercontinental.

Southwest: $75 each way.

TAP Portugal: 70lb limit. Within Europe, $55. Intercontinental, $117

Thai Airways: $60 each way for boards under 9 feet. Board bags over 9 feet cost $119

United: 100-lb. limit. $150 between Canada, Puerto Rico and Virgin Islands. $200 everywhere else.

Virgin Atlantic: 50-lb. limit. $100

Virgin AustraliaRepresents one piece of checked baggage allowance, provided that it does not exceed the maximum size and weight limits.

[Photo by Glaser]




Fonte: A Guide To Airline Board Bag Fees for Surfers
A Guide To Airline Board Bag Fees for Surfers

Areia sob suspeita na Vila (SC) - Waves

Areia sob suspeita na Vila (SC)


Substância suspeita aparece nas areias do Canto da Praia da Vila, Imbituba (SC); Amostra é recolhida para análise em laboratório.






Secretaria Municipal do Meio Ambiente e UNESC recolhem amostra de areia suspeita na Praia da Vila, em Imbituba. Foto: Divulgação.


Após denúncia da ouvidoria municipal de Imbituba (SC), a Secretaria Municipal do Meio Ambiente (SEMA) juntamente com a UNESC (Universidade do Extremo Sul Catarinense), realizou o recolhimento de quatro amostras compostas, para análise da substância que teria aparecido nas areias do Canto da Praia da Vila.

Segundo o engenheiro ambiental da Prefeitura de Imbituba, Eduardo Canarim, não há confirmação se o material de cor escura encontrado nas áreas do litoral é de fato coque de petróleo, somente através de análise de laboratório poderá ser identificado precisamente o tipo de material.

“Podem ser, na verdade, minerais provenientes do intemperismo das rochas características da geologia da região ou até mesmo matéria orgânica”, explica o engenheiro.

“Primeiramente deverá ser feita a caracterização química do referido material, caso se confirme a presença de coque de petróleo ou qualquer outro poluente no solo, iremos investigar a origem e adotar os procedimentos técnicos e legais cabíveis”, ressalta o secretário de Meio Ambiente, Paulo Márcio Souza.

Caso se confirme a presença de coque de petróleo nas areias da praia, deverá ser investigada a origem e os responsáveis. Posteriormente, a SEMA irá autuar a empresa responsável, e principalmente exigir a reparação do dano ambiental causado e soluções técnicas efetivas para impedir novas ocorrências. Os resultados devem ficar prontos em 20 dias.

Fonte Assessoria Prefeitura Municipal de Imbituba.



 



Fonte: Waves
Areia sob suspeita na Vila (SC) - Waves

sábado, 26 de agosto de 2017

Beauty & Chaos on Vimeo

[embed]https://vimeo.com/227599579[/embed]
Beauty & Chaos on Vimeo

sexta-feira, 25 de agosto de 2017

(3) No Sudden Movements | #TheSearch by Rip Curl - YouTube

[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NidZnJrE5g4[/embed]
(3) No Sudden Movements | #TheSearch by Rip Curl - YouTube

Ondas proibidas - Waves




Vídeo narra a história de norte-americanos que foram presos por surfar numa propriedade pertencente a um bilionário em San Mateo, Califórnia.



Vídeo narra a história de norte-americanos que foram julgados por surfar numa propriedade pertencente a um bilionário em San Mateo, Califórnia. Califórnia (EUA). Foto: Reprodução.


Em 2013, cinco surfistas estiveram em um pequeno tribunal em Redwood City, Califórnia, depois de serem presos por invasão de terras pertencentes ao capitalista e co-fundador da Sun Microsystems, Vinod Khosla. Os surfistas enfrentaram até um ano de prisão e multas de mil dólares pelo simples ato de surfar na bastante contestada propriedade situada em San Mateo, conhecida como Martin"s Beach.

"Eu acreditava que nós tínhamos o direito de estar lá", disse Jonathan Bremer, um dos cinco jovens dispensados das acusações de invasão criminal. "Então, quando o xerife apareceu, não pensei que seríamos presos na praia, com impressões digitais e ameaçados com algemas. Eu achei que devíamos discutir a Lei Costeira da Califórnia e a Constituição da Califórnia, e como temos vários documentos que protegem o acesso público às praias públicas e lançados com um aviso. Mas não foi assim que acabou acontecendo. Então, o fato de que os tribunais escolheram descartar o caso com base em evidências insuficientes quando eles tiveram imagens de vídeo de nós entrando em uma estrada privada diz muito. Isso mostra que eles não usarão os recursos do distrito para impor um fechamento ilegal da estrada".

Embora os surfistas tenham sido libertados devido a evidências insuficientes, o debate sobre o acesso à terra continuou. Com muito desgosto de Khosla, que comprou a terra (incluindo a única via costeira para a praia) por US$ 32,5 milhões em 2008, esse debate ficou a favor dos surfistas. Mais recentemente, os tribunais derrubaram o recurso de Khosla para restringir o acesso a Martin"s Beach.

O filme “Martin"s 5: Battle for the Beach” explora a luta da Surfrider Foundation para manter as praias dos Estados Unidos abertas ao público. Por causa das ações de surfistas e campeões corajosos como o Surfrider, dispostos a lutar pelo direito de aproveitar os recursos preciosos da América, parece que esta é uma batalha que o público americano continuará a vencer.

Fonte: The Inertia.






VEJA TAMBÉM



Fonte: Waves
Ondas proibidas - Waves

Chris Burkhard - Under an Arctic Sky - Carvemag.com







.


This autumn Honolulu Events presents with Chris Burkard his new movie “Under an Arctic Sky”.

In ten different cities, the audience will be taken on an unforgettable evening through the breathtaking landscape of Iceland. Chris Burkard is an accomplished explorer, photographer, creative director, speaker and author. Chris Burkard tours through Europe between August 28th and September 08th 2017. On his tour, Chris Burkard will present his new movie “Under an Arctic Sky” and provides details about the experience of shooting a movie in Iceland, in a wild and stunning nature. The show starts with a slide show that will reveal some experiences during his adventures in Iceland, continues with his new movie and ends with a Q&A between the audience and Chris Burkard. The film follows six surfers along with adventure photographer Chris Burkard and filmmaker Ben Weiland as they seek out unknown swell in the remote fjords of Iceland’s Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. Chartering a boat, they depart from Isafjordur on the cusp of the largest storm to make landfall in twenty-five years. With the knowledge that storms bring legendary swell the crew are optimistic, but face failure when the storm forces them back to shore. Making the decision to carry the expedition on by road they experience the brutality of Iceland’s winter and begin to question if searching out the unknown is worth risking their lives for. Despite setbacks the team pushes on and finds that uncertainty is the best ingredient for discovering the unimaginable.

Q: How did the film come to fruition?
A: Under An Arctic Sky was years in the making. While the trip didn’t take place until December 2015, Chris Burkard and his long-time collaborator Ben Weiland knew they had an important story to tell that transcended surfing. After numerous trips to arctic regions like the Aleutian Islands, the Kamchatka Peninsula and the Faroe Islands they knew they wanted to focus on more than just surfing in their next film. Elli Thor Magnusson, an Icelandic photographer and Chris’ good friend, had told Chris of a remote region in the Northwestern-most part of Iceland that he was eager to explore for new waves. With surf culture becoming more mainstream and brands catering to a larger audience, Chris and Ben saw the perfect opportunity to usher audiences back to the excitement of the sports adventurous roots. When the swell finally showed promise – Chris and crew departed to Iceland, just as the worst storm in twenty-five years approached.

Q: Why suffer through such cold conditions just for a wave?
A: Whenever you ask someone what they picture when they think of a surfer they’d probably say a long-haired blonde kid from Southern California. There’s this stigma that the best places to surf are in warm, tropical places. This isn’t entirely true. Sure you can go to Hawaii and surf the North Shore, or Australia and watch perfect waves curl in crowded line-ups, but this isn’t what attracts people to surf. Big wave surfer and cold-water pioneer “Doc” Renneker says that it wasn’t about finding a perfect wave but that “surfing was just an excuse to get to these incredible places”. There’s so much joy when you find success after going through the proverbial (or in our case literal) storm. When you go to these places, there aren’t thousands of people onshore watching, or fifty surfers fighting for one of the many perfect waves, it’s just one or two surfers out in the wild having fun and enjoying the beauty around them. The water may be 34o, it may be snowing and miserable 99% of the time, but we go for the 1%, when everything comes together and we’re surfing a mushy wave under the northern lights with our best friends. In the end, that’s what matters – those singular moments that we can look back on and say, “ya, that was all worth it”.

Q: What are your hopes for the film moving forward?
A: Ultimately our main goal is getting as many people to see the film as possible. Directly after the Tribeca release we’ll be touring the film across North America, beginning on the West coast. We’ve been getting incredible feedback form fans around the world asking for us to come to their cities to show a premiere so we intend on doing just that. Thanks to a successful Kickstarter campaign we’re incredibly excited to share that we’ll have the means to travel all over to screen the film. In September we’ll launch the international tour which will run throughout Europe, Australia and South America as well as select countries in Asia. After the initial tour

Dates
28.08.2017 Copenhagen
30.08.2017 Hamburg
31.08.2017 Cologne
01.09.2017 Amsterdam
02.09.2017 London
03.09.2017 Berlin
04.09.2017 Munich
05.09.2017 Zurich
07.09.2017 Stuttgart
08.09.2017 Vienna

underanarcticsky.com/

.


Yeeeeeeeeeeeew, right on!






Surfing under the Northern Lights




Fonte: Chris Burkhard - Under an Arctic Sky - Carvemag.com
Chris Burkhard - Under an Arctic Sky - Carvemag.com

quinta-feira, 24 de agosto de 2017

Alana Blanchard, on balancing the private and the public lifestyle in Hawaii

From Kauai to Oahu with Ms. Blanchard, and the joys of splitting time between both










ALANA BLANCHARD, HOME AND AWAY


A BALANCE OF THE PRIVATE AND THE PUBLIC LIFE WITH MS. BLANCHARD






Alana Blanchard is spending (slightly) less time than normal out of the media spotlight after her pregnancy announcement in June. And when she needs her space, few locations provide a natural seclusion quite as lovely as her home island of Kauai.

“Growing up on Kauai was pretty amazing,” Alana says in the above edit, pre-baby-bump, shot by and produced by GoPro. “I grew up on a five-acre piece of land that my parents had. I feel like a lot of people on Kauai live off the land. They grow a lot of their own produce. Ever since I could remember, my dad and mom would grow bananas and oranges. I really want to start a garden, but…I’m never here [Laughs]. But when I do get to be here, I’m pretty much just chilling…No one can find me.”

And then there’s Oahu’s North Shore, which, come December, transforms into the island satellite for every blip of activity in the industry. For two months straight, you can’t cross an aisle in Foodland without spotting another pro, or a brand manager, or someone whose paycheck is dependent on boardshorts and bikinis.

“All of the waves [on the North Shore] are really fun. It’s just the crowd factor,” says Alana. “That’s what you have to deal with. You have to time your sessions in a way that you’re going to miss the crowds.”

One island chain, and yet two drastic differences between the public and private lifestyle, the here and away. So when Ms. Blanchard reveals from her own life how to do both, and with supreme grace, we gladly watch.







Fonte: Alana Blanchard, on balancing the private and the public lifestyle in Hawaii
Alana Blanchard, on balancing the private and the public lifestyle in Hawaii

How Tia Blanco Nearly Gave Up On Competitive Surfing and Why She"s So Determined to Succeed Now | The Inertia

“I have tasted victory and I know what it’s like to succeed.



Tia Blanco, the 20-year old from San Clemente, has become one of surfing’s most recognizable ladies. Here, she talks about self-confidence, resisting peer pressure and following the path that’s led to her making waves as a young athlete. The video shares a look at her daily life, from her plant based diet – a rarity among professional athletes – to the hard work she puts toward surfing in and out of the water.

“I have tasted victory and I know what it’s like to succeed,” Blanco said. “It gives me a lot of confidence moving forward to hopefully make it on the WSL. The WSL showcases the 15 best women in surfing in the world. It would be my dream to be amongst those women and to compete with them.”

Fonte: How Tia Blanco Nearly Gave Up On Competitive Surfing and Why She"s So Determined to Succeed Now | The Inertia
How Tia Blanco Nearly Gave Up On Competitive Surfing and Why She"s So Determined to Succeed Now | The Inertia

Watch Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau Surf in Long Beach, Vancouver Island | The Inertia

Because looks ain"t everything when it comes to approval ratings.




Associate Editor

 


Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau is a handsome man. He notably made Ivanka Trump swoon. But just ask Mexican President Enrique Peña Nieto whose approval rating most recently hovered around 17 percent – looks when leading a country ain’t everything.Bodysurfing helps – ehm, Obama. Surfing is better.

The Canadian PM recently took a trip to Vancouver Island, and between planned activities and stunts for the press to feed his fun-loving image, he managed to get a short surf in. Er, maybe the surf was a publicity stunt too. Either way, the guy can go straight on a wall of whitewater like nobody’s business. Well done, sir.


Fonte: Watch Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau Surf in Long Beach, Vancouver Island | The Inertia
Watch Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau Surf in Long Beach, Vancouver Island | The Inertia

Future Legends com Guga Arruda - Waves

Guga Arruda orienta molecada em projeto nas ilhas Mentawai, Indonésia.






O Future Legends é um projeto da Mentawai Surf Charters que visa o treinamento de jovens atletas em ondas perfeitas, dando a oportunidade de tornarem-se atletas que definirão o surfe moderno em ondas de qualidade daqui pra frente.

Este ano realizamos o Future Legends com três grommets e seus pais. Sol Gruendling, 9 anos, é australiano, filho de brasileiros, e sempre treina comigo nas férias de verão. Sol vem se destacando nas competições na Austrália, sempre acompanhado do pai, Julio Gruendling.

Além dele, Davi Glazer, 9, competidor da Fecasurf (Federação Catarinense de Surf), filho de Philipe Glazer, ex-competidor e especialista nos tubos de backside; meu filho Tuco Arruda, 13, competidor de skate e free surfer; minha filha, Marina Arruda, 16, desenhista e free surfer, assim como Marco Griesi, 17, skatista, músico e free surfer, acompanhado de seu pai e grande amigo, Rodrigo Griesi.

Para completar o grupo, meu aluno e médico Dr. Alberto Pontes, que cuidou da galera com muito carinho, e meu primo, Neko Rodrigues, meu professor de surfe, isso mesmo, ele que me botou na primeira onda na década de 1980 e sempre foi uma grande referência para mim.

Minha esposa Milene Arruda foi a cinegrafista da trip, e o fotógrafo Everton Luis, amigo de longa data e morador da ilha de Bali, fez um lindo trabalho como surf guide, nos levando sempre para as melhores ondas nas melhores condições e muitas vezes sem crowd algum.

O desafio nesse tipo de projeto é pegar ondas perfeitas para todos os níveis todos os dias e nós conseguimos, tudo que sonhamos e até um pouco mais.

Começamos com HT"s, uma onda que não pode ficar de fora do itinerário, com ondas de 1,5 metro. Foi uma diversão para os pais e um belo desafio para a molecada que ali começou a lidar com uma bancada rasa de coral.

Dali buscamos um secret de ondas mais fáceis, no qual os mais jovens tiveram a oportunidade de trabalhar manobras mais radicais e arriscar alguns tubos. Nosso primeiro dia terminou em um lineup perfeito, sem nenhum barco além do nosso. Nessa altura já estavam todos realizando o sonho de surfar ondas perfeitas entre pais, filhos e amigos.

Seguimos ao sul para surfar a tão sonhada onda de Macaronis, onde todos surfaram dois dias inteiros, com tubos e manobras até não aguentar mais. Não muito longe dali fica um pico muito especial na minha vida, Greenbush, uma onda faixa-preta, radicalmente tubular e que acaba em cima das pedras. Por isso a maioria dos barcos não fica por lá.

Além disso, a onda requer direção de swell, vento e maré adequados para não ficar perigosa demais. Eu e Everton ja estávamos estudando as previsões e navegando pra fazer acontecer a tão sonhada queda na rainha do sul de Mentawai. Toda a nossa dedicação foi recompensada com ondas grandes, poderosas e perfeitas praticamente sem ninguém na água.

Do nosso grupo só eu e o Philipe tínhamos condições de surfar Greenbush e depois de umas três horas de muitos tubos, fomos para a vizinha Roxy, onde pude me dedicar ao treinamento dos grommets e de todo o grupo, surfando pequenos tubos e fazendo um trabalho focado nos aéreos.

Todos os dias pegamos ondas para todos os níveis, tanto as famosas como os secrets mantidos por nosso guia, onde surfávamos sem crowd algum.

Optamos por terminar a trip pela região de Playgrounds, onde encontramos praticamente todos os brinquedos funcionando. O grupo surfou direitas e esquerdas de todos os tipos. Ali tivemos a oportunidade de trabalhar a linha de surfe e a postura de cada um sobre a prancha, fazendo vídeo-análises diárias.

A cereja do bolo foi em Kandui, onda que eu ainda não tinha surfado nas condições certas. Para fechar a trip com chave de ouro, fomos abençoados com ondas grandes e perfeitas em uma das bancadas mais extensas de Mentawai.

Depois de muita felicidade e evolução, a galera veio embora pensando em voltar e, é claro, já estamos armando a Future Legends para agosto de 2018.

Foto de capa Bruno Veiga

 


1200x800
Future Legends, Mentawai, Indonésia. Foto: Everton Luis.




Fonte: Waves
Future Legends com Guga Arruda - Waves

quarta-feira, 23 de agosto de 2017

A trilogia das lajes caiçaras - Waves

Fotógrafo registra passagem de swell pelas bancadas de Angra dos Reis e da Ilha Mãe, em Niterói.



Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.

Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.



esquerda

direita

Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.Angra dos Reis (RJ). Foto: Raphael Almeida / DOSURF.





Quinta-feira, 10 de agosto de 2017

A caminho do escritório depois de uma caída nas marolas antes da chegada do mega swell previsto, recebo uma mensagem do meu amigo Ilan Blank, big rider com muita experiência em ondas grandes, perguntando se eu estava disponível para fotografar numa trip de surfe.

Vamos sair hoje à noite e voltar no domingo, lajes secretas. Tow...

Não precisou falar muito para eu perceber a magnitude do que ele estava propondo. Como fotografo de surfe iniciante e apaixonado por ondas grandes, talvez eu estivesse diante da grande oportunidade registrar ondas raríssimas dentro de casa, além de não querer deixar meu amigo na mão sem os preciosos registros. Entretanto, eu nunca havia fotografado de um jet-ski. Que lente devo usar? Ponho a câmera na caixa estanque? Sem a caixa, qual o risco de molhar o equipamento e acabar no prejuízo? Alto, o risco era alto.

Pegaríamos a estrada do Rio para Angra no fim do dia, seria o tempo de eu pensar na logística para fotografar e organizar os equipamentos. Então, nos 20 minutos que faltavam para eu chegar ao escritório, organizei minhas ideias e chegando lá conversei com a minha chefe sobre tirar aqueles dois dias de folga. Confirmado, tô dentro!

Agora eu precisava de uma câmera reserva e de uma bolsa impermeável para vedar o equipamento em caso de emergência. A câmera eu consegui emprestada e a bolsa eu teria que improvisar. Então aproveitei a dica do meu amigo e referência como fotógrafo de surfe, Leonardo Caetano, de embalar a câmera em plástico filme. A bolsa impermeável seria uma sacola plástica embalando a câmera dentro da mochila. Ótimo!

Tudo pronto, acabei levando todo o meu equipamento fotográfico, e como combinado, no fim do dia pegamos a estrada para Angra dos Reis. Em três caminhonetes e com três jet-skis, a equipe era formada pelos surfistas Ilan Blank, Renato Phebo, Beaultiful Hear, Marcelão, Wagner Beta e seu filho Pedro Beta. Todos experientes surfistas de tow in em busca das raríssimas ondas de Angra dos Reis. E eu, engenheiro surfista (de ondas normais) que fotografa o surfe nas horas vagas.

Sexta-feira, 11 de agosto de 2017

Chegamos em Angra por volta de meia-noite e o horário da maré nos dava tempo para acordar sem pressa e aproveitar o café da manhã da pousada. Mas, com a ansiedade que eu estava, às quatro da manhã eu já estava olhando para o teto.

Colocamos os jets a água e seguimos navegando para o pico. Com a minha câmera empacotada dentro da mochila, varamos a arrebentação da praia, onde já quebravam ondas com mais de meio metro. A praia, que quase nunca tem onda, estava lotada de surfistas - além dos surfistas da região, também havia um pessoal do Rio de Janeiro.

Com quinze minutos de navegação, chegamos ao pico. Uma direita colossal quebrando numa pedra lisa, na ponta de uma ilha, com o lip da onda arremessando na direção das pedras, impossível de ser surfada na remada.

Quando chegamos, o mar estava começando a acertar e já tinha um pessoal no pico. Antes mesmo de eu sacar minha câmera, desce o Victor Gioranelli numa bomba sem precedentes! It’s on!

A segunda cena foi um outro fotógrafo cair dentro d’água com câmera e tudo! Confesso que me perguntei o que estava fazendo ali, mas a resposta veio logo na minha cabeça: você veio fazer a foto da sua vida! Logo em seguida vem o Ilan em uma dinamite maior ainda. "Está feito o quadro para pendurar na sua parede", pensei depois de disparar o obturador, já com a câmera pronta para o combate.

Na água, os fotógrafos e videomakers eram os melhores, as minhas referências estavam ali na minha frente trabalhando, fazendo aquelas imagens históricas. Definitivamente hoje acertamos o pico!

Todos surfaram bastante, até que um forte vento começou a atrapalhar a formação das ondas. Voltamos para a pousada e descansamos para o dia seguinte, onde o planejamento era despertar mais cedo para chegar no pico quando o dia clareasse. Segundo a previsão, o swell manteria a intensidade mas mudaria de direção.

Sábado, 12 de agosto de 2017

Na manhã do segundo dia, saímos bem cedo, antes mesmo do café da manhã da pousada. Na laje, o cenário muito diferente do dia anterior. As ondas estavam menores e o mar estava balançado, com a formação das ondas bastante prejudicada. Não haviam condições para o surfe.

Estavam todos de cabeça feita, todos haviam surfado boas ondas e eu com certeza já havia feito a foto da vida! Mas, mesmo assim, fomos verificar uma outra laje onde raramente quebra uma esquerda muito tubular.

Mais dez minutos navegando e chegamos na segunda laje. Uma esquerda cavernosa, uma onda muito buraco, muito rápida, rodando um tubo muito pesado e com muitas pedras ao redor. Deduzi imediatamente que não teria surfe naquele dia, até porque no fim da onda tinha um degrau raso onde a pedra ficava exposta.

Engano meu. Surfistas na água, fotógrafos e cinegrafistas a postos e começou mais um show de insanidade! Mas dessa vez estávamos contra a luz em um dia nublado, totalmente diferente do dia anterior, ensolarado e de águas claras. Nessa sexta-feira o clima estava tenso, com poucos surfistas saindo dos tubos. O surfe de backside estava fatal, alguns até decidiram não se arriscar.

Até que a formação da onda começou a piorar e o risco já não valia a pena, então navegamos de volta para a rampa e tiramos os jets da água. O mar já havia baixado bastante e não havia muita expectativa de boas ondas para o domingo, então, depois de dois dias de altas ondas e altas imagens, em um clima de cabeça feita e missão cumprida, arrumamos os equipamentos e pegamos a estrada de volta para o Rio. Afinal, no dia seguinte era Dia dos Pais e todos queriam passar o dia com a família.

Cheguei em casa umas 4 da tarde, com toda aquela tralha pra arrumar e muito cansado. A primeira coisa que fiz foi um backup das imagens. Acabara de realizar a trip da vida dentro de casa, a ficha ainda não havia caído. Ainda naquela tarde, recebo as mensagens do Ilan dizendo pra eu me preparar para o próximo dia. O sonho ainda não havia terminado.

Domingo, 13 de agosto de 2017

Na manhã de domingo, Dia dos Pais, despertei às 3 da manhã com muita dificuldade, sentindo o corpo todo moído, como há muito tempo não sentia. Não imaginava o quão desgastante era permanecer na garupa do jet na mesma posição por tantas horas seguidas. Dirigi até a casa do Ylan, aqui do lado no Recreio mesmo, e de lá fomos no carro dele ao encontro de Phebo. Da marina na Barra da Tijuca, partimos para Niterói rebocando o jet e fomos fazer um check na Ilha Mãe.

Dessa vez foi mais complicado colocar os jet-skis na água, pois a saída para o mar era na boca de um rio muito raso e um pouco mais afastado da praia. A onda era bem mais próxima da costa, uma direita pesada quebrando na laje, mas abrindo bem. Devia ter uns 6 pés de onda, um pouco mais de 2 metros nas séries. Foi o menor e mais fácil dos três dias de surfe. E o dia estava impecável, ensolarado, água quente, um clima de alegria e satisfação dentro d’água.

Todos surfaram soltos, com sorriso no rosto. Fotografar aquelas ondas com o visual do Rio de Janeiro ao fundo não tem preço, foi para fechar a trip com chave de ouro. Voltamos para a praia e batemos em retirada, afinal ainda tinha o almoço do Dia dos Pais, mas acredito que o atraso foi justificado.

Já em casa, analisando as imagens, depois de limpar o equipamento, lavar as roupas de borracha, a ficha começou a cair. Eu havia testemunhado a audácia de surfistas que, por conta própria, vão até as ondas e surfam. Simplesmente surfam, em uma escala maior, onde a dependência mútua exige confiança e comprometimento máximo, onde não há espaço para hesitações. Esses são os Slab Hunters.

Agradecimentos:

- Beaultiful Hear, pela pilotagem excepcional, sem a qual essas imagens não seriam possíveis;
- Leo Caetano, pelas aulas de fotografia;
- Ilan Blank, pela oportunidade.



 

Fonte: Waves
A trilogia das lajes caiçaras - Waves