Altas histórias

 

 

 

O projeto "Altas - Histórias do Surfe em Santa Catarina" idealizado por Maurio Borges prevê a produção de um livro e de um documentário longa-metragem resgatando histórias e personagens marcantes no desenvolvimento do surfe em Santa Catarina.

 

Fui convidado a dirigir o documentário e com a produção do Maurio e imagens do amigo cinegrafista Antonio Zanella, gravamos uma primeira leva de entrevistas no mês de junho. Deste material surgiu este teaser com alguns dos pioneiros do surfe na região, utilizado para divulgar o projeto durante o evento Surfesta - realizado no inicio de dezembro e que homenageou grandes nomes do surfe em Santa Catarina desde os anos 70.

 

Pessoalmente, é sempre um prazer reencontrar pessoas como o shaper Machucho e conhecer pessoalmente figuras lendárias que conhecia apenas de nome, como o shaper Paulinho "Piu" e o organizador de eventos Bento Xavier. Completam a lista de entrevistados o baiano Jorge Hupsel e o gaúcho João Wallig, pioneiros na abertura de surf shops em Floripa.

 

A lista prevista de novos entrevistados é grande, mas é certo que figuras importantes acabarão ficando de fora da edição, algo inevitável num projeto dessa magnitude. Vale ressaltar ainda que produzir documentários de forma independente é um grande desafio no Brasil e espero que o projeto consiga alcançar os recursos financeiros necessários para podermos realizar novas gravações e viabilizar a obra da forma que ela merece.

Altas histórias

GALLERY: Britain"s Best Longboarders - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

 

Earlier this year we gathered together three of Britain’s (and the world’s best longboarders)  for an open and frank discussion about the state of the sport.

The discussion, featuring Ben Skinner, Mike Lay and Adam ‘Bearman’ Griffiths was published in Issue 253.

However In gathering the imagery for the piece we ended up with a folder overflowing with shots, and so instead of condemning them to a virtual life on a small spinning disk , we though we’d let them breath here, for you to peruse and enjoy.

 

The images feature three surfers from what is an extremely deep longboard talent pool, with contemporary names like Joe Davies, Sam Bleakley and James Parry as well as the lineage they learnt from, well deserving of honourable mentions in their absence.

Here’s an extract from the story and a selection of b-roll imagery. To read the full feature, grab an issue of 253 here.

“The last ten years have seen a great division in the world of longboarding, with Joel Tudor, who was once a world champ and stalwart of the high performance scene, turning his back on it and instead becoming the architect of a grand resurgence of traditional logging.

The reasons for this schism are wide ranging and nuanced. However at its heart it stemmed from a rejection of new school manoeuvres and the board design features required to facilitate them. The World Tour judging too, its adversaries claimed, was ignoring the importance of elements such as cross-stepping and trim, banishing the things that made longboarding its own unique art form and rendering it short boarding on an over-sized thruster.

Alongside this came a renewed appreciation for traditionally shaped, heavier single fins, free from leashes, side fins, rocker and hard rails, all introduced previously to allow for progressive manoeuvres. Beginning with Tudor’s Duct-Tape Invitational the ever growing scene of of traditionalists also began organising their own invitation-only events, which strictly regulated the boards that could be ridden. Over the years, the scene gathered momentum, rendering the previously ubiquitous progressive approach increasingly niche.

Fast-forward to 2016 and the WSL, which presided over the exact competitions that the traditionalists denounced, decided it wanted in on what was an increasingly popular and profitable scene. It circulated a memo, after entry fees for the year had already been paid, stating that competitors would only be able to ride single fins in its events. However, the news was met with anger by competitors, who had not been consulted on the change, and the decision was quickly reversed.

This year a new grassroots longboarding tour, called the Surf Relik was conceived, with the first event taking place in Malibu in October. The competition included both high-performance, traditional and women’s categories, each with equal prize purses, in an attempt to promote inclusivity and equality, while simultaneously healing the divides and bringing the global community back together for two days of impressive action at the world’s most iconic longboarding wave. Next year the organisers plan to host three more events, as a well as series of qualifiers, with locations such as Snapper and J-Bay already ear-marked. 

The British Isles have been blessed with an incredibly impressive lineage of longboarding talent, which, unlike the men’s short-boarding division, where past dominance is quickly fading into the rear view mirror, looks just as healthy as it ever has.

Among an extensive roster of notable names, accolades are diverse and plentiful. Most recently, progressive Newquay boys Adam Griffiths and Ben Skinner have racked up podium finishes on the longboard world tour, with Ben also securing a third place result at the Surf Relik, while Sennen’s Mike Lay has received invitations to the Duct-tape and Mexi Log fest, and enjoys adulation from his peers in the traditional world.

Ben Skinner on the first set wave of the day. Photo Luke Gartside

As well as providing a perfect cross section on the different schools that exist in modern longboarding, this crew is as eloquent, knowledgable and opinionated as they are talented, making them the perfect candidates for the discussion you find laid out before you. Are you sitting comfortably? Then let’s begin.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never miss a mag in 2018 by subscribing here.

All photos Luke Gartside

Source: GALLERY: Britain"s Best Longboarders - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine
GALLERY: Britain"s Best Longboarders - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

LONGBOARD CÁDIZ

 

[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hUa_eaiQUM[/embed]
LONGBOARD CÁDIZ

Words of advice from the Kauai big-wave surfer Keala Kennelly

"You have no idea what you are capable of until you challenge yourself. You are so much stronger than you think." –Keala Kennelly

Sometimes girls feel like they have to prove themselves. Growing up on Kauai, I felt like the guys were especially hard on me because I was a girl. Even when I would do something awesome, they wouldn"t give me a lot of credit for it. But when we got a little older, that all changed.

You have to be scrappy and resilient when you"re the underdog. Having that mentality is always beneficial, because life will throw shit at you.

When someone is critical of you when you"re young, it can leave a really negative mark. I was told so many discouraging things as a grom. I"ve been called everything from loser to ugly, dyke and tomboy and was told I couldn"t do things because I was a girl. I wish I could say that those things didn"t have an effect on me, but they did. Even though I acted really tough, I was a sensitive little girl and I took everything the boys
said to heart.

Things have improved a lot for the Women"s Tour. The events have improved, there is a lot more prize money now and I feel like the women are getting a lot more respect. There are still a lot of really talented female athletes without sponsors, though.

In an ideal world, women"s big-wave surfing would look a lot like the Pe"ahi Challenge last year — except with a bigger prize purse and all of the top female big-wave surfers would have major sponsors.

When it comes to finding sponsorship, my advice to female surfers is to be a role model for other women. You can play up your sexiness and try to be as appealing as you can to the male demographic or you can be like Carissa Moore and stay true to who you are and not let your surfing talent take a back seat. One of these days, brands are going to realize that sex isn"t the only thing that sells.

If you"re gay, come out when you"re ready to come out, but come out before it kills you. It"s hard for athletes in the public eye to come out. I don"t judge athletes who want to remain in the closet; I"ve been there and I know the internal struggle they might be going through every second of every day. But I wish I could have come out earlier so I could"ve been a positive role model for LGBT people sooner.

Not being true to yourself and hiding who you are erodes your soul in an indescribable way. When you can finally be true to who you are, it is one of the most freeing feelings you will ever experience in your life. I wouldn"t trade that for all the sponsorship dollars in the world.

You have no idea what you are capable of until you challenge yourself. You are so much stronger than you think.

The fear of missing out is far scarier than facing a fear. I was terrified to go back to Teahupoo after destroying my face on the reef there, but the thought of not going back and being able to experience that wave again became far more than I could live comfortably with.

The big-wave community is different from the rest of the surfing community. As big-wave surfers, we put ourselves in life-threatening situations and it"s something we all experience together. I think it makes us closer. Just like soldiers who fight in a battle together, there is an unspoken pact between us that I don"t think average surfers experience.

The best part of big-wave surfing is the moment when all your senses are engaged.Putting yourself in a life-threatening situation forces you to be totally and completely present and makes you feel like you are one with the universe for a split second. I have never been able to get to that place any other way. There"s nothing quite like that rush you get from paddling into a wave the size of a two-story house.

I think the glass ceiling shattered when Billabong gave Barrel of the Year to a woman. When they called my name, I think the exact thought I had in that moment was, "They are actually going to let me win this thing!" Not because I didn"t think I deserved it, but I wasn"t sure if they would actually allow a woman to beat all the men. I think there was a part of me that reverted back to my childhood and expected the boys to not give me the credit I deserved. But I realized that I"m not dealing with insecure little boys anymore.

 

#Big-Wave Surfing #Keala Kennelly #wisdom

Source: Words of advice from the Kauai big-wave surfer Keala Kennelly
Words of advice from the Kauai big-wave surfer Keala Kennelly

Alberto de Mario. Small and funny surfing en la "isla"

A Alberto lo conocimos en un festival de Salinas de hace 6 años, era un adolescente venido de Almería, tendría unos 16 años y no os voy a engañar, me impactó su manera de surfear su longboard, apuntaba muy buenas maneras.

Su afición se la transmitió su padre y su tío, dos italianos instalados en la costa almeriense, que surfeaban cuando el mediterráneo se lo permitía, seguramente serían de los pocos surfers de esa costa; en ese ambiente de amor al mar y al surfing se crió nuestro protagonista de hoy.



Con el tiempo Alberto se instaló en el norte los meses de verano, trabajando de monitor de surfing, como véis empezó muy joven a trabajar y a valerse por sí mismo, su surfing también empezó  a progresar, le cogió gusto a la tabla corta hasta tal punto de casi no surfear su long largas temporadas, lo que radicalizó algo su estilo en mi modesta opinión, pero creo que le valió para coger mas confianza y leer mejor las olas.

Pero últimamente se ha vuelto a enganchar a su tabla larga y single fin y como demuestra en este edit, ha pulido su estilo, dándole un toque clásico a su deslizar aunque metiendo algún girazo mas “performer” por el medio y combinando muy bien los dos estilos sin que ninguno destaque sobre el otro.

Mi conclusión y en contra de mis pensamientos iniciales, es que ese lapso de tiempo prolongado que estuvo surfeando su tabla corta, le ha venido muy bien y se nota en su surfing mas seguro y fluido, Alberto es aún muy joven y tiene un gran margen de progresión y su surfing aún va ha subir muchos enteros.

Todo este texto tiene una pequeña reflexión personal detrás y es la siguiente” Cuanto mas tablas y olas  diferentes surfées mejor surfer serás” Alberto De Mario es la prueba.

Filmado y editado: Marco @thebodasurfcaravan and @andrea_ru

Source: Alberto de Mario. Small and funny surfing en la "isla"
Alberto de Mario. Small and funny surfing en la "isla"

ISABEL LETHAM: A AUSTRALIANA PIONEIRA QUE SURFOU COM UMA PRANCHA

Isabel Letham é uma das mulheres pioneiras no surf feminino. Considerada a primeira surfista da década de 20, ela, seu maiô e sua prancha estrearam na cena do esporte na Austrália quebrando muitos paradigmas da época – entre eles, o de usar uma prancha, pois naquele tempo os australianos surfavam bodyboarding com pranchas de madeira e faziam bodysurfing, sem nunca terem ficado em pé antes.



Corajosa e ousada, Isabel aprendeu sobre o esporte com Duke Kahanamoku, um dos mais influentes da cena do surf e considerado o pai do surf moderno.

Em 1914, o norte-americano que foi a convite da NSW Swimming Association para a Austrália não resistiu às ondas do lugar e pediu para o pai de Letham – que era carpinteiro -, que fabricasse uma prancha de pinho australiano. Duke chamou a atenção de todos ao surfar em pé e em seguida, Isabel foi convidada a subir numa prancha e experimentar praticado daquela forma.



Ela, que já era nadadora, salva-vidas e instrutora, ficou famosa na cena local, tornando-se uma celebridade por toda a Austrália. Em busca do american dream, ela mudou-se para os Estados Unidos e tornou-se uma instrutora de natação em São Francisco.



Mesmo tendo ensinado as pessoas a terem contato com o mar e a água, foi o surf que a imortalizou. Desde sua morte, em 1995, Isabel continua sendo uma referência feminina do esporte e é considerada a primeira mulher que pisou em uma prancha de surf.

Além de deixar sua marca na história do surf feminino, tornou-se referência para outras meninas praticarem o esporte com coragem e determinação!
ISABEL LETHAM: A AUSTRALIANA PIONEIRA QUE SURFOU COM UMA PRANCHA

Michael Lay, un surfer total

Conocimos a Michael hace unos tres años en un Gliding Barnacles, venía junto a su compatriota James Parry.

Todo el mundo quería ver a Parry surfear, pero los ojos de la gente se desviaron hacia un chico rubio que surfeaba junto a él, era Michael Lay, dando una clase magistral  sobre la tabla. Su surfing se podría calificar como divertido, te transmite que realmente lo está pasando bien sobre la tabla.



Han sido varias veces más las que hemos podido coincidir con él y nos sigue cautivando con su forma de deslizar, tanto con long como con tablas más cortas y por su carácter cercano y afable, es un tio muy divertido y par nada se cree una estrellita, a pesar de competir con los mejores en el DUCT TAPE que organiza Joel Tudor.



Hace poco han salido un par de clips suyos, uno con tabla corta y otro surfeando una ola kilométrica en La Saladita, en la que demuestra que da igual lo que lleve bajo los pies, que lo va a surfear a un nivel altísimo.

Este es el vídeo en la Saladita filmado por Alex Patrick

Reproductor de vídeo

  

 

Y este con una de sus shortboards, filmado por Sennen Surfing Centre:

Reproductor de vídeo

 

 

 

 

 

Source: Michael Lay, un surfer total
Michael Lay, un surfer total

Pedrada gratuita

Listen Now, Misty Dawn, de Kai Neville, é disponibilizado na íntegra para download.

 

Com elenco de peso, o filme Listen Now, Misty Dawn, do cineasta Kai Neville, foi disponibilizado na íntegra para download no site da marca de óculos Ephøke.

O longa conta com nomes como Dion Agius, Creed McTaggart, Jack Freestone, Mitch Coleborn, Nate Tyler, Brendon Gibbens, Chippa Wilson, Taj Burrow e Shaun Manners.

Confira acima o trailer do filme.

Clique aqui para fazer o download grátis.

Source: Pedrada gratuita
Pedrada gratuita

Why Surfers Need to Let Themselves Fall in Love With Yoga

 

Yes, we all have heard a million times how great yoga is for you. Those who practice it regularly swear by it. That doesn’t necessarily mean you have to take on the mindfulness or spiritual sides of a yoga practice to feel its benefits though. You can be anyone doing anything yet you can still practice yoga poses. Whatever your state of mind, the physical yoga poses will do your body good.

Specific yoga poses (asanas) focus on lengthening and releasing pressure in the spine, opening the chest and shoulders, and opening the hips to help re-balance the body.

Benefits of asanas:
-Increases spinal flexibility
-Stretches the chest and abs
-Strengthens the hands, wrists, arms, shoulders and upper back
-Improves posture
-Reduces lower back pain

Most people say they don’t have the time or (apparently) do not feel a need to practice yoga. Ironically, these are the exact people who should be doing just that. I’ve never met an active person/athlete without regular aches and pains. And I rarely meet one who can simply reach down and touch their toes without struggling.

When it comes to surfers and yoga, most don’t know where to start. This exciting, adrenaline-rich activity creates its very own set of muscular imbalances and misaligns our posture. The most common imbalances for surfers are lower back compression, tight hips and hamstrings, a closed chest, and locked shoulders leading to pain in the neck and shoulders or causing injuries. But a regular practice can put the body back into balance and prevent those injuries. No need to spend hours practicing – the key is to do it little and often. As little as 15 – 30 min twice to three times a week will make a huge difference in how your body feels and can improve your performance in the water.

Points to remember when starting:
-Be kind to your body. Don’t force anything and listen to what the body tells you.
-If you experience any pain – back off from the stretch and be patient with yourself (although little discomfort and muscle burn are good).
-Remember that the tightness of your muscles comes from years of surfing, so be patient and kind to your body.

PRE-SURF ROUTINE:
-Surya Namaskar (Sun Salutation) A
-Surya Namaskar (Sun Salutation) B
*Remember, there are variations of stepping instead of jumping the legs back or lowering down to the knees through Ashtanga Namaskara rather than Chaturanga Dandasana.

POST-SURF ASANAS:
-Extended Puppy / Melting Heart Pose
-Thread The Needle
-Child’s Pose
-Bound Angle Pose
-Fire Log
-Locust Pose
-Knees to Chest
-Upward Plank

NO-SURF ROUTINE:
If the waves are flat, an active rest is always a great idea. During those fat spells smash out an hour or even hour and a half of a dynamic yoga session. There are particular asanas you can do to increase the strength in your core, chest, and arms, and improve your balance. You can also boost your wrists, ankles, forearm, and shoulder strength to help stabilize the board as you pop up. A great practice to accomplish this would be Ashtanga Yoga, Vinyasa Flow, or Power Yoga. If you are a surfer couple try Acro Yoga.

Still not convinced? Above improving your flexibility and building muscle strength, yoga can also prevent cartilage and joint breakdown, improve bone health, increase your blood flow, make you happier, help you focus, relax your system, and give you peace of mind. So what are you waiting for?

Source: Why Surfers Need to Let Themselves Fall in Love With Yoga
Why Surfers Need to Let Themselves Fall in Love With Yoga

Five Books Every Surfer Should Read - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

 

The joy of surfing very much centres around the unique sensation of actually doing it, making it a tricky subject to write well about.

However, there are some excellent literary works in the surf book genre, focussing on the journeys, the characters, life lessons and the beautiful vistas the surfing lifestyle bestows upon its most dedicated participants.

For those of you that prefer to read from something other than a backlit screen, we’ve gathered together a selection of five recommendations. So whether you’re looking for a new book for the bog, a long read for an upcoming journey or a good Christmas present for a fellow wave rider, this list has got you covered.

 

And of course, if you really want to stack up on premium reading material, we’ve got back issue bundles and subscription offers available in our online shop.

 

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life- William Finnegan

Chances are you’ve heard of William Finnegan’s Pulitzer prize-winning masterpiece, Barbarian Days, which charts his journey from discovering surfing as a child in Hawaii and California, to becoming infatuated with it as an adult, documenting the trials and tribulations of a life structured around travelling and looking for waves. Throughout his various journeys to the furthest reaches of the globe he documents life changing relationships and events of immense personal and historical importance, all interspersed with tales of harrowing near-death wipeouts and incredible discoveries, including at an at the time little known tropical island called Tavarua. The book is filled with convivial anecdotes, life lessons and deeply intelligent analysis of the culture in which we are all embroiled to one extent or another, making it a must read.

Click here to buy it now!

 

 

 

 

 

The History Of Surfing- Matt Warshaw

Written by surfing’s finest historian Matt Warshaw, The History Of Surfing is easily the most comprehensive historical account of wave riding and the culture it has spawned. Researched over the course of five years, the book is equal parts witty anecdote and studious documentation, taking the reader on a chronological voyage of discovery from surfing’s early history to the turn of the millennium. Unlike some of the previous attempts at charting surfing’s history, Warshaw doesn’t sugar-coat or stick blindly to the stereotypical ‘surfer dude’ narrative, tackling thorny issues such as localism and sexism within the culture along the way.  His tone is authoritative and the breadth of his knowledge supreme, making this imperative reading for the curious surfer come history buff.

Click here to buy it now!

 

 

 

Let My People Go Surfing- Yvon Chouinard

This is the long-awaited memoir of Yvon Chouinard, legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist and the founder of Patagonia, Inc. In it, Chouinard shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to his ambitious climbing expeditions, that inspired the innovative designs for the sport’s equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life, making it a critical read for entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Click here to buy it now!

 

 

 

 

High Tide, a Surf Odyssey- Chris Burkard

This is one of surfing’s ultimate photo books, featuring the work of one of the most famous and celebrated contemporary surf photographers, Chris Burkard. Burkard’s images have defined the genre of adventure surf photography for almost a decade, with as much of a focus on the vast and rugged landscapes as the surfer they enshrine. High Tide is a brilliant photographic collection captured during his recent travels, taking in everywhere from the Arctic Circle to the Roaring Forties, with a bit of tropical diversion between. And, of course, Burkard’s own Californian backyard. It’s the perfect printed inspiration for lovers of surf photography everywhere.

Click here to buy it now!

 

 

 

Surf Is Where You Find- Gerry Lopez

Written by one of the most well-respected surfers of all time, Surf Is Where You Find it is a collection of 38 different stories about those who have been most influential in the sport of surfing, presented along side a host of images from Lopez’ personal collection, documenting a life spent travelling the globe in search of waves. Lopez’s accolades are plentiful and far reaching; he initially gained widespread acclaim for his approach at Pipeline throughout the late 60’s, before co-founding Lightning Bolt surfboards, cementing himself as a defining force in the development of the high performance shortboard. More recently he has become celebrated for his snowboarding prowess and yoga.

Click here to buy it now!

 

Check out the rest of the titles we recommend in our online book shop.

Source: Five Books Every Surfer Should Read - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine
Five Books Every Surfer Should Read - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

Surf Longboard Meeting Day - Faro de Trafalgar (Cádiz)

 

[embed]https://vimeo.com/247186415[/embed]
Surf Longboard Meeting Day - Faro de Trafalgar (Cádiz)

Fatos e curiosidades

Confira cinco curiosidades que talvez você não saiba sobre The Endless Summer, a obra-prima de Bruce Brown.

Bruce Brown faleceu aos 80 anos enquanto dormia em Santa Barbara. Foto: Arquivo pessoal.

 

O mundo do surfe perdeu um verdadeiro pioneiro no último fim de semana. Capturando a essência do esporte e trazendo ela às massas através do filme The Endless Summer, Bruce Brown criou um novo gênero de filmes de surfe. Além disso, inspirou milhares e milhares de surf trips e continua influenciando filmmakers de todos os tipos até hoje.

 

O filme lançado em 1966 continua vivo na memória, mais de 50 anos depois. E, em tributo ao cineasta, o site GrindTV separou cinco curiosidades que talvez você não saiba sobre Brown e sua obra-prima. Confira abaixo:

 



 

1# Foi o shaper do sul da Califórnia Dale Velzy que ajudou Brown, então salva-vidas com 19 anos, a dar o primeiro passo como cineasta. Em 1957 ele comprou uma camêra zerada Bolex, equipamento de edição e deu a Brown US$ 5 mil para futuras despesas. Isso o levou a fazer seu primeiro filme, Slippery When Wet.

 



 

2# The Endless Summer é leal a sua narrativa de que foi uma viagem com apenas três pessoas: Brown, Robert August e Mike Hynson. Os três viajaram com apenas duas pranchas e um equipamento de filmagem que pesava menos de 45 quilos. A jornada de quatro meses para um dos melhores filmes de surfe de todos os tempos é ainda mais inspiradora pela abordagem minimalista do projeto.

 



 

3# De acordo com a Encyclopedia of Surfing, a ideia da missão global em busca da onda perfeita não havia brotado até o agente de viagem dizer que Brown economizaria US$ 50 por ticket se ele continuasse viajando sentido Leste. Brown então realizou que se descesse a linha do Equador duplicaria a temporada de verão (o título "Verão Sem Fim" foi escolhido antes de as gravações começarem).

 



 

4# Chegando perto da data de lançamento, em 1966, Brown ainda lutava para encntrar distribuidores para o filme. Ele tinha estreias marcadas em apenas algumas cidades do litoral dos EUA para continuar arrecadando dinheiro e levar o filme adiante.

 

Foi então que no inverno de 1965 Brown levou o filme à cidade de Wichita, no Kansas, cidade sem nenhum tipo de conexão com a praia. Depois de duas semanas, a bilheteria do filme superou clássicos da época como My Fair Lady e The Great Race.

 



 

5# Em 1964, Brown pediu ao então diretor de arte da revista Surfer, John Van Hamersveld, para criar o cartaz do filme. Ele fez isso porque Van Hamersveld era o único artista que conhecia. Van Hamersveld foi pago em US$ 150 para fazer o serviço e depois seguiu em frente.

 

Dois anos depois, quando um colega do Instituto de Arte de Chouinard lhe avisou que o postêr que havia desenhado estava no New York Times, ele só cresceu na carreira. Coincidência ou não, depois disso fez capa de discos para bandas como The Beatles, Rolling Stones, Jefferson Airplane, Grateful Dead, Kiss, entre outras.

Source: Fatos e curiosidades
Fatos e curiosidades

MasterT

 

[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLciZSpQlGM[/embed]
MasterT

MOONLESS ISLAND

 

[embed]https://vimeo.com/245359123[/embed]
MOONLESS ISLAND

Glory Hazel (Holanda)

 

[embed]https://vimeo.com/246712166[/embed]
Glory Hazel (Holanda)

The Rocker Of Junk; Meet Finnish Eco Surfboard Builder Elvis "Romu" - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

 

“Certainly the islands of Lofoten are a magical place for me, the waves are incredibly good and uncrowded, but is not just about that. Sleeping in a tent under the giant mountains covered in snow, feeling the strong cold wind whipping through the deep fjord. A primitive energy comes into my lungs, setting my body free, giving me a sense of belonging, as a part of the entire universe. That’ s where I feel most free and inspired.”



Elvis “Romu” is a surfer and a shaper, born and raised in Finland, with a passion for wild nature, surf and exploring, deep rooted within him. He lives in Helsinki, where he works as a carpenter and in his free time he builds surfboards from waste material found from his workplaces, creating innovative shapes, and stronger more durable boards. When the storms hit the coast Elvis, will be out there trying to catch the right moment, when the waves are at their best. Being a surfer on the Baltic sea coast requires a lot of commitment and timing, as the waves are created from fast storms and usually last for only a couple of hours.

 

“Finnish surfers are united by the same passion and the same problems as well, (laughs) we try to motivate each other, and be positive. Surf in Finland is about feeling the nature and the fast changes of the weather conditions. Usually we drive for hundreds of kilometers to get a short session, and sometimes we find no waves at all.”

When Elvis invited me to join him for a surf trip on the islands of Lofoten, I was super excited. It was my first time surfing in the Arctic ocean and the whole experience sounded like an amazing and extreme adventure, sleeping in a big tent with a chimney, hiking and waiting for good waves to hit the bay. Sitting in front of the fire place one evening, sipping some whisky, we began to chat about Elvis’ story.

When and where did you experience surfing for the first time?

The very first time that I experience surfing was in Greece, when I was 13 years old on holiday with my family. I was playing on the beach with my brothers and I found a “toy bodyboard” on the shore. Instinctively I grabbed it and jumped in the water. I just remember how much fun it was, sliding on those little waves breaking close to the shore. The year after we went on holiday to the Canary islands and I spent the entire vacation surfing. It was on that trip I got hooked for real.

So after that you started surfing in Finland? How?

It required a bit of imagination and passion. In Finland you can only really surf in the winter and since I had just a thin wetsuit, I had to combine it with part of an old diving wetsuit and when it got really cold I used to put woolen socks under the boots. Getting to the surf spots was also a big problem, I used to take a bus, or just surf the spots that were close to my house. That went on until I was 18, at which point I started to work to earn money to buy my own car and travel abroad once a year looking for real waves.

How did you first get started shaping?

It all started in Lapland in North Finland. I was attending the University of Industrial Design in Rovaniemi and there was a carpentry course, with an open workshop where I could use all the tools and spend as much time as I wanted experimenting. That’s where I started to build surfboards. The first real board that I made was a quad funboard for small waves, made completely out of recycled wood, which came from a house that was about to be demolished.

It was then that I came up with the name Romu Shapes, which means junk in Finnish; something that is perceived to have no value. As I went on shaping, I realised that I was spending all my time in the workshop and skipping the classes, so I decided to drop the studies and go on a surf trip to Lofoten, which was the closest surf spot that I found on the map .

What happened on that trip to Lofoten? And what has kept you coming back?

Lofoten became a kind of temple for me, the feeling of raw nature, the loneliness. When I’m sitting on my board in the middle of the ocean surrounded by these majestic mountains, I end up making new decisions and changes in my life.The time that I dropped out of Uni and came here changed my thoughts so much, that I never went back there. I realised that it was not for me and instead I could focus on building my own surfboards.

I packed up my van and drove to Zarautz in the North of Spain, where I opened a little workshop. I lived in my van, surfing and selling Romu craft for a year.

What do you think about the board manufacturing industries attitude towards sustainability? And which materials do you use to make your boards more ecological?

I see the change coming really slow, we have very developed technology which we are not completely taking advantage of, and still buying and producing boards which are made with derivatives of petrol and fibreglass that is toxic and not biodegradable.

Personally I build my boards with as few new materials as possible, which means being creative finding alternative solutions. From my workplace I get insulation panel, SPS foam, which would otherwise have eventually been thrown out. To make the fins I usually pick up the skateboards that my friend want to dump, and instead of fibreglass I use a thin wood sheet, from a very common tree in Europe, which I seal with Chinese oil made of nuts. Recently I’ve also been experimenting with cardboard.

What are your plans for the future? Will you try to earn your living as a shaper?

I’m working on a big project now, I bought a little house close to the coast in Portugal, which will be biodynamic. All the energy, the electric power for my tools, which I will use to shape my boards, will come from waste. My goal is to produce entirely organic surfboards with carefully selected material, creating boards that last longer and eventually disappear back to where they came from. I would love to live a simple life close to the waves, selling a couple of boards a months, and as much in contact with nature as I can.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along with his girlfriend Anna, Giovanni is currently working on a project called the Local Surfer Project, which explores the reality of surf culture around the world, combining photos and illustration. You can follow the project via their blog and instagram.

Photos by Giovanni Astorino Illustrations by Anna Anundi

Source: The Rocker Of Junk; Meet Finnish Eco Surfboard Builder Elvis "Romu" - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine
The Rocker Of Junk; Meet Finnish Eco Surfboard Builder Elvis "Romu" - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

Oahu pelo alto

Viaje de drone por alguns dos lugares mais icônicos do North Shore de Oahu, Havaí.

O vídeo acima traz um tour pelo North Shore de Oahu, Havaí, filmado por Ryan de Seixas com um drone e em resolução 4K.

Nas imagens é possível ver alguns picos da "Seven Mile Miracle", como é conhecida essa faixa de litoral que reúne algumas das ondas mais poderosas do planeta.

Abaixo, separamos mais imagens de drone do arquipélago havaiano. Confira.

Pipeline e Backdoor



Waimea



Haleiwa



Havaí

VEJA TAMBÉM

Source: Oahu pelo alto
Oahu pelo alto

MEETING WITH WAVES

 



MEETING WITH WAVES from José Miguel Llano on Vimeo.
MEETING WITH WAVES

Océano Surf Museo, un rincón para la historia del surf Gallego y peninsular.

 

La idea del Museo surgió hace algo más de año y medio de los miembros del Océano Surf Club. Desde la creación del Club, en 1988, algunos de sus socios fueron recopilando documentos, imágenes, objetos, …,

Después de 19 meses de intenso trabajo, el pasado viernes 1 de diciembre abrió en Valdoviño, en el interior del edificio de la Casa de la Cultura, el Océano Surf Museo.



La idea del Museo surgió hace algo más de año y medio de los miembros del Océano Surf Club. Desde la creación del Club, en 1988, algunos de sus socios fueron recopilando documentos, imágenes, objetos, …, que pasado un tiempo parecía de interés que se mostrasen al público. La idea era contar la historia de los orígenes del surf en Galicia, y cómo éste se había desarrollado en esta Comunidad. Pero también mostrar todas las facetas que rodean al surf desde el punto de vista cultural y social, y que lo hacen una de las actividades más ricas de las desarrolladas por el hombre.

 

De entre las diferentes opciones, la idea se ofreció al Concello de Valdoviño, que de inmediato dijo que sí. El Concello de Valdoviño se ha ocupado de la gestión y coordinación de todo el proyecto, y será el encargado de la programación futura del Museo.



Los contenidos del Museo se han organizado en 3 líneas argumentales. La idea inicial era que la historia del surf en Galicia sirviese de hilo conductor para ir tocando todos los temas vinculados con el surf: medioambiente, oceanografía, arte (música, fotografía, cine, …), industria, …., pero la historia del surf en el mundo es tan interesante que finalmente se decidió que ésta fuese la primera parte del recorrido.



Frente a la versión “oficial” de esa historia, el Museo ha buscado recoger también las otras versiones y perspectivas. Ahí ha sido de especial valor los estudios efectuados por el historiador Daniel Esparza, y también otros trabajos que sitúan, por ejemplo, la aparición de actividades relacionadas con el deslizamiento recreativo en lugares como China, África Occidental o Perú, en épocas coetáneas, o incluso anteriores, al surf en la Polinesia. También se cuentan las partes más oscuras de la historia del surf: cómo fue un modo de resistencia ante la colonización occidental que sufrieron las islas Hawaii en el siglo XIX; o cómo el surf fue utilizado como “herramienta” en la ocupación de las tierras de los nativos americanos. Se ofrecen también visiones distintas de cómo el surf llegó a Europa, o de cómo acontecieron algunos de los hechos han marcado todo esta historia. Para ello se han consultado las principales fuentes que han profundizado sobre la historia del surf, ofreciéndose en el Museo una visión que creemos dará lugar, al menos, al debate.



 

En paralelo, la segunda de las líneas argumentarles viaja por la historia del surf en Galicia. Aunque se incluyen pequeñas referencias al surf en España, deliberadamente apenas se ha desarrollado cómo el surf llegó y creció en otras comunidades. Nuestro deseo es que en un futuro otros proyectos como éste crezcan en otras regiones, y que la historia de esas costas sea contada por quien corresponde. El trabajo de recorrer estos casi 50 años de trayectoria no ha sido sencillo. Posiblemente existan importantes lagunas y carencias. No se intenta que lo recogido en el Museo no sea la “historia definitiva”, sino que sea una invitación a que aparezcan nuevas versiones e incorporaciones, y se genere debate sobre algo tan interesante como la historia. La idea es que los contenidos sean vivos, y que dentro de un tiempo lo contado se pueda revisitar, actualizar y completar.



Por último, y encontrándose el Museo en Valdoviño, la tercera parada, casi obligada, era dedicar un espacio al Pantín Classic. El campeonato ha sido uno de los principales medios a través del cual el surf ha madurado en Galicia. No solo su trayectoria, sino todos los grandes surfistas que han pasado por él, y lo que ha acontecido en las 30 ediciones que ya se han celebrado, merecía un espacio propio en el Museo.

A parte de los contenidos documentales, un Museo de este tipo era necesario que acogiese también material físico que reflejase el paso del tiempo, o documentase un hecho histórico. Gracias a la cesión de personas como Coque Araujo, Gony Zubizarreta, Tony Butt, Juan Abeledo o Clyde Martin (por citar solo a algunos), la exposición del Museo incluye tablas, y otros objetos, que tienen una relevancia histórica no solo en Galicia sino también en el mundo.



Como no podía ser de otra manera, el Museo se ha complementado con una trabajada web (oceanosurfmuseo.org) en donde se muestran parte de los contenidos del Museo, además de información sobre horarios de apertura, actividades, etc.

Desde el principio, una de las ideas con las que nació el proyecto es que el Museo sea un ente vivo, que además de sus contenidos fijos, recoja a lo largo del año actividades de modo continuo. Desde exposiciones temporales (se ha empezado con una que reúne parte de la colección de tablas de Enrique Artero), a conferencias, cursos, proyecciones de cine, conciertos, …. Ojalá el Museo sea la infraestructura que sirva de apoyo en el desarrollo de los muchos proyectos vinculados con el surf que están teniendo lugar en nuestra zona. Esa es la etapa que comienza ahora, y la que esperamos nos ofrezca interesantes propuestas que nos lleven a visitar el Museo más de una vez.

---

Hangten revista

Desde la revista queríamos agradecer a Jesús Busto, a Eloy Taboada  y por supuesto al “OCEANO SURF MUSEO” que nos abran una pequeña ventana a lo que es y va a representar este museo del surf, para Galicia y porque no decirlo para el conjunto de España. Una buena forma de dejar nuestro legado a las nuevas y futuras generaciones de surfers, para que sepan de donde venimos; tener recogida parte de la historia del surf en un lugar físico, nos ayudará a conocer y no olvidarnos de toda esa gente que estuvo antes que nosotros y puso su granito de arena para que el SURF esté mas vivo que nunca en nuestro país.

Source: Océano Surf Museo, un rincón para la historia del surf Gallego y peninsular.
Océano Surf Museo, un rincón para la historia del surf Gallego y peninsular.

WATCH: Peony Knight In A Quick Edit From Tropical Paradise - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

 

Devon raised ripper Peony Knight just dropped a brand new clip, featuring a few sessions on Sri Lanka’s dreamy right hand points.

Peony is currently out in the tropical nation enjoying the warmth and the abundance of fun waves after a full on year of competing, which culminated in a fourth place finish  in the European WQS rankings.

“A QS campaign might take a few years” Peony told us in an interview earlier this year. “You have to get experience at first, then build up a seed, that takes a year or 2, and then work your way up through a really competetive field. Its a long haul and people often need to have a break along the way- look at girls that are making an impact on the QS this year- like Claire Bevilaqua and Marissa Shaw- they have done a campaign, then had some time out, then come back full of new energy and are doing really well… so this is something you have to work hard at. My goals for this year are to finish in the top 40 on the international women’s rankings, and to finish in the top 4 in Europe rankings. Long term, I can only talk ambitions, but It would be an absolute dream to be a part of the Olympic GB team.”

 

Keep an eye out for Peony when she restarts her QS campaign next year.

Source: WATCH: Peony Knight In A Quick Edit From Tropical Paradise - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine
WATCH: Peony Knight In A Quick Edit From Tropical Paradise - Wavelength - Europe"s First Surf Magazine

Corais da esperança

Kim Feldmann apresenta os tesouros esquecidos de Moçambique, no leste africano.

 

Praia do Tofinho possui direitas vazias e perfeitas. Foto: Kim Feldmann.

 

Se a natureza está em constante equilíbrio, pode-se dizer que Moçambique justifica parte de sua instabilidade social com um dos ecossistemas de coral mais diversos do mundo. Esta república no sudeste da África vem passando por intensas mudanças desde sua independência de Portugal em 1975 e logo com a Guerra Civil de Moçambique, que começou em 1977 e durou 16  árduos anos. Tais eventos reverberaram em forma de muitos problemas socioeconômicos, como o alto nível de analfabetismo, a alta porcentagem da população vivendo abaixo da linha de pobreza, os índices alarmantes de HIV/AIDS, o saneamento precário e a corrupção.

O êxodo de grandes populações das regiões rurais para áreas costeiras também foi um resultado dos conflitos, já que muitos moçambicanos fugiram das brigas no interior do país e se mudaram para a costa; transição que estimulou também uma pressão ecológica, previamente inexistente no litoral. Com isso, muito mais atenção é voltada a essa região do OIO (Oceano Índico do Oeste), e as áreas de Moçambique que baseiam suas comunidades e economias no desenvolvimento sustentável dos ricos recursos naturais são as poucas a se manterem acima do nível de pobreza.

Região litorânea de Moçambique conta com uma grande variedade de recursos naturais. Foto: Kim Feldmann.

 

Em 2009, tive a oportunidade de conhecer esse tesouro do leste africano, onde o calor das pessoas, somado ao calor do mar, me fizeram retornar um ano depois. Em minha primeira visita, passei um mês no vilarejo de Tofo (sete horas de carro ao norte da capital Maputo), surfando as direitas vazias e perfeitas da praia de Tofinho e explorando diferentes pontos de mergulho.

No ano seguinte prolonguei minha estadia e passei alguns dias surfando um grande swell que chegou à Punta D’Oro – pequeno vilarejo perto da fronteira com a África do Sul, famoso por suas direitas longas em fundo de areia –, antes de seguir viagem a Tofo novamente. Em ambas ocasiões, o que mais me impressionou sobre o país foi sua biodiversidade marinha. A translucidez da água combinada com a cor e riqueza dos recifes de coral eram o ambiente perfeito para longas sessões de surfe; uma experiência quase surreal. Quanto tocava no assunto, moradores locais e outros viajantes diziam que Tofo era apenas uma “degustação”, e me instigavam a conhecer a parte norte do país, que segundo eles me deixaria de “boca aberta”.

Ponta D"Ouro esconde mais tesouros deste país do leste africano. Foto: Kim Feldmann.

 

A região norte de Moçambique começa nos arredores de Nacala e Pemba, e segue pelo Parque Nacional Quirimbas até a remota zona da fronteira com a Tanzânia. O difícil acesso é tanto uma bênção quanto uma maldição, já que ajuda a preservar a ecologia, mas muitas vezes também restringe as comunidades locais de sistemas de saúde e educação.

 

Esse pedaço da costa de Moçambique é pontilhada por ilhas, ilhotas e barreiras de coral; um paraíso para o surfe, mergulho e pesca. Além disso, com o término da guerra civil, a redução de tensões vem permitindo que mais estudos sejam feitos acerca da biodiversidade dessa região antes subestimada, tornando-a mais conhecida entre cientistas e viajantes.

Em 2011, a descoberta de fontes de gás perto da costa de Moçambique gerou previsões para uma transformação na economia do país; bem como um impacto correspondente em muitos ecossistemas marinhos. Um ano depois – após uma década de pesquisas -, a CORDIO (Coastal Oceans Research and Development in the Indian Ocean) publicou um estudo indicando que o Canal de Moçambique é lar do segundo mais diverso recife de coral do mundo, após pesquisadores encontrarem mais de 400 espécies diferentes de coral na região, quase equivalente aos números registrados no Great Barrier Reef e Ilhas Andaman.

 

Área de recife mapeada pelos pesquisadores Timothy R. McClanahan e Nyawire A. Muthiga no norte criou o apelido “corais de esperança". Foto: Reprodução.

No início deste ano, os pesquisadores Timothy R. McClanahan e Nyawire A. Muthiga, do Marine Programs of the Wildlife Conservation Society, publicaram outro estudo apresentando como os recifes do norte de Moçambique e das Ilhas Quirimbas exibem características ambientais que permitem a criação de um portfólio para adaptação de mudanças climáticas.

 

Ao combinar o aumento no número de comunidades de coral nas águas profundas do sul, com a estabilidade termal nas superfícies do norte (o que é importante para o aparecimento e persistência de classes mais sensíveis), existe uma ‘heterogeneidade ambiental’ que facilita a preservação de muitas espécies.

 

Mesmo com limitações nas bordas do sul (devido a fatores geológicos e oceanográficos), a região tem o potencial para se tornar seu próprio centro adaptativo, desde que os recifes sejam bem administrados e não super-explorados.

 

Tais circunstâncias trouxeram o apelido de “corais de esperança”, já que muitas espécies aparentam intactas pelas variações de temperatura nos oceanos (um catalisador para corais expelirem as algas simbióticas responsáveis por providenciar suas incríveis cores e nutrientes, resultando no branqueamento de populações de coral) registradas em outros lugares do mundo.

Recifes de coral são importantes dentro de ecossistemas globais e marinhos por providenciarem habitats, nutrientes, agirem como barreira na proteção de litorais contra tempestades, bem como fornecer fontes de renda para comunidades locais em forma de turismo e recreação.

 

Vila de Tofo é um dos destinos turísticos mais populares do país. Foto: Cam Anderson.

 

Sua relevância é clara também na vida dos surfistas, onde moldam as melhores ondas do planeta. Porém, recifes ao redor do mundo estão sob constantes e diversas ameaças. O aquecimento na temperatura da superfície dos oceanos; a acidificação das águas; a poluição química e sedimentar; os raios ultravioletas; a invasão de espécies exóticas; a destruição de meios causada por técnicas de pesca insustentáveis, mergulhadores, âncoras, mineração e dragagem são os maiores degeneradores de recifes.

Muitos atribuem a pesca ou outros fatores antropogênicos como as principais razões por trás da degradação de ecossistemas de corais – número de espécies de peixes reduzidos significa maior quantidade de ouriços e crescimento de algas, que por sua vez danifica e sufocam corais. No entanto, o estudo de McClanahan e Muthiga mostrou que distúrbios climáticos na região norte das Ilhas Quirimbas tiveram um impacto negativo mais forte que influências humanas, já que a variedade dos grupos de coral foi relativamente alta em recifes perto de áreas urbanas.

 

Vida marinha é intensa em Moçambique. Foto: Joel Sharpe / joelsharpe.com.

 

Mesmo assim, as quantidades de peixes medidos nas pesquisas foram insatisfatórios, e junto com a baixa eficácia na administração da pesca (dentro e fora de áreas restritas) indicam uma prática generalizada e insustentável, que irá prejudicar o potencial da região de adaptar às mudanças climáticas.

Acabei não conhecendo o norte de Moçambique, mas todas as conversas que tive sobre suas belezas despertaram uma curiosidade que se manteve através de anotações em meus diários. Ao me deparar com os estudos publicados sobre a importância ecológica da região, minha curiosidade foi justificada.

 

Tanto as análises quanto os resultados da pesquisa mostram o quão fascinante é o mundo marinho, e como a natureza se adapta a fim de manter o equilíbrio. Enquanto Moçambique não é um destino de surfe popular, nem seus recifes são um tópico comum em conversas, a descoberta de comunidades de coral tão versáteis como essas pode fazer com que os olhos do mundo se voltem para esse pedaço esquecido do litoral africano.

 

Descoberta de comunidades de coral tão versáteis pode fazer com que os olhos do mundo se voltem para esse pedaço esquecido do litoral africano. Foto: Joel Sharpe / joelsharpe.com.

 

Com sorte, a administração das áreas vai melhorar e as espécies de coral prosperarão, continuando a fornecer cores incríveis, proteção, fonte de renda, e bancadas impecáveis àqueles em busca do tubo perfeito.

 

Para saber mais sobre o trabalho de Kim Feldmann, clique aqui ou acesse o perfil @kimmfeldmann no Instagram.

Referências:

Online Library

 

PLOS ONE

Source: Corais da esperança
Corais da esperança

the TIME is REAL . . . morocco part

 

[embed]https://vimeo.com/245364374[/embed]
the TIME is REAL . . . morocco part

Bruce Brown, Creator of ‘The Endless Summer’ and Father of the Surf Film, Has Died

Bruce Brown, surfing"s consummate filmmaker, has passed away. Brown, who is best known for The Endless Summer, played a large role in how surfing looks today.

Bruce Brown, the father of surf filmmaking, shown here in the mid ’60s, is dead. Photo: Bruce Brown Films

Bruce Brown, surfing’s consummate filmmaker, has died. Brown, who is best known forThe Endless Summer, played a large role in what surfing is today.

“We got a call today from his family that he had passed away,” said Jim Kempton, Former Editor and Publisher of Surfer and President of the California Surf Museum, to The Inertia. “We are going to miss him greatly. He’s probably the most iconic filmmaker in the history of surf culture. He passed in his sleep.”

Brown was born in 1937 in San Francisco, California. When he was 10, he, along with his family, moved to Long Beach, where he quickly fell in love with surfing. Of course, it was a very different scene back then, and Brown’s career would act as the original mold for the shape of modern day surfing. “Shit, everyone surfs,” Brown told The Inertia in June. “Doctors, lawyers, Indian chiefs. It’s kind of like now it’s nothing to be ashamed of, but when I was a teenager you didn’t want to tell many people that you were a surfer… Surfing basically had a bad rap at the time, thanks to Hollywood. I thought, ‘Well, the The Endless Summer will give it some dignity.’”

According to The Encyclopedia of Surfing, Brown’s first-ever surf movie was an 8-millimeter short created from a Navy submarine off Honolulu in the mid-’50s. By 1957, Brown was back in California. Dale Velzy saw the potential in the young filmmaker and bought him a 16-millimeter, then put him on a flight to Hawaii. The ball was rolling, and Brown made his first full-length surf film, entitled Slippery When Wet. “Slippery was easygoing, colorful, neatly edited, and scored by West Coast jazz favorite Bud Shank,” wrote Matt Warshaw on EOS, “but the movie was, in large part, defined by Brown’s smooth and casual narration.”

Soon after, Brown released Surf Crazy (1959) and Barefoot Adventure (1960), both of which were filmed in Mexico, California, and Hawaii. His movies are now staple documentaries of surfing’s halcyon days. By 1961, he’d released Surfing Hollow Days, which included the first ride at Pipeline ever caught on film. “He was the first guy to really put together what we consider a real film about surfing,” said Kempton. “He was the only filmmaker who broke out to a mainstream audience to tell people around the world what surfing was about.”

In 1966, The Endless Summer, revamped onto 35-millimeter film and re-edited, was shown in theaters all over the United States. It was named one of 1966’s 10 Best Films by Newsweek and cemented him as one of the best filmmakers of his time. In 1971, he earned an Academy Award nomination for Best Documentary for On Any Sunday, a movie about motorcycling co-produced by the legendary Steve McQueen.

By the mid-’70s, Brown was mostly retired. He spent the next two decades doing exactly what he wanted. “[Brown] spent 20 years restoring and racing cars, playing the stock market, and deep-sea fishing,” wrote Warshaw on EOS.

Films, however, proved too much of a temptation for him, and in 1992 he released The Endless Summer II. Hollywood threw money at the project, but like many sequels, the magic wasn’t quite the same. Still, though, Brown’s handiwork with the original shone brightly.  Nearly all of the surf films in the decades afterward borrowed something from it. He was thoroughly intoxicated with surfing and his films showed just how much he loved it. “First thing he would have me do was make sure I had a bottle of cold vodka ready for him at the end of a day of surfing,” said Randy Rarick, former executive director of the Triple Crown of Surfing, to The Inertia. “He lived life to the fullest. He was the original grom and through the media, he projected it to the rest of the world.”

Brown was the winner of numerous awards for his contributions to surfing: Waterman Achievement Award from the Surf Industry Manufacturer’s Association and a Lifetime Achievement award from Surfer Magazine, to name a few. In 2009, he earned a spot on the Surfer’s Hall of Fame in Huntington Beach.

Brown, however, never fell victim to the adoration of the surfing world. “I’m grateful of course,” he told The Inertia in May of 2017, “but I think I get too much credit.”

Well, Mr. Brown: credit where credit is due. The surfing world–and the world in general–is worse without you in it. Randy Rarick put it best: “He was a man of the world and of surf, and I’m sorry to see him gone.”

Our condolences to the friends, family, and everyone affected by the loss of the man who almost single-handedly gave us a lifestyle we all love so much.

The Inertia‘s Joe Carberry contributed to this report.

Source: Bruce Brown, Creator of ‘The Endless Summer’ and Father of the Surf Film, Has Died
Bruce Brown, Creator of ‘The Endless Summer’ and Father of the Surf Film, Has Died