From Bali with love... - Drift Surfing

A thought crosses my mind: “Freedom”. I am in Bali, standing knee-deep in the refreshing water of the ocean. My camera is within reach like always for the last couple of weeks, I don’t want to miss a single epic moment. “Peace of mind.” I have to admit, this really sounds corny and old fashioned. It seems almost cocky to claim you are close to peace of mind in the 21st century, surrounded by all this busyness and social stress. I gaze to the silhouettes in the water which have become so spookily familiar to me in the last few days. “But yeah”, I decide with approval, “If this state really does exist, those people are really damn close to it.” Through my camera I am able to relocate the silhouettes of the guys that kinda adopted me into their inner circle for this short amount of time. Red board shorts, white lycra, blond hair. Check. It’s been about two months now that I have been joining people that have dedicated themselves to this sport. Small, tall, fat, thin, pros, beginners… this doesn’t matter to me or them. They are all united by one fact. They are united by the call… View More »

Fonte: From Bali with love… – Drift Surfing

From Bali with love... - Drift Surfing