Surviving Malaria in West Africa to Surf the Best Waves of My Life | The Inertia

My body was already weak and I didn"t want to die next to the best wave in the world without surfing it, so I waited 70 days for that one good swell.

Continue lendo aqui -> Surviving Malaria in West Africa to Surf the Best Waves of My Life | The Inertia
Surviving Malaria in West Africa to Surf the Best Waves of My Life | The Inertia