It was September 2002 when I met Judah. He was a small, wiry kid. His style on a surfboard was somewhat spastic but nonetheless he was a good surfer.We spoke for the first time stepping on the coral reef of Grajagan, in the island of Java. He was coming in from the surf, emanating the sort of wisdom one has after having spent three days out there. As for me, a bit lost and lonesome and about to venture out for the first time into the sanctuary of waves that, until then, I’d only known through magazines and films.
Continue a ler aqui: How Surfing Becomes a Weapon of Peace | The Inertia
How Surfing Becomes a Weapon of Peace | The Inertia
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